Raf Simons' right-hand man is Alaïa's new creative director

The Swiss luxury group specialized in watches and high jewellery Richemont, owner of brands such as Cartier, but also Chloé and Alaïa, has announced that the creative direction of the brand founded by the late creative genius Azzedine Alaïa will be entrusted to Pieter Mulier, for decades the right-hand man of Raf Simons. 

Formally an architect, Mulier has been alongside Raf Simons for fifteen years, accompanying the Belgian designer in all the brands he has directed, from his namesake label to Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Klein. In the documentary Dior and I by Frédéric Tcheng, which tells the behind the scenes of Simons' first collection for the Maison Dior, the importance and role of Mulier are unequivocally portrayed, not only in the relationship between the atelier and Simons but also as an influential and indispensable voice in every decision of the brand. 

Mulier will make his debut at the helm of Alaïa with the SS22 collection. Since the legendary founder of the brand passed away in 2017, the Maison has continued to move forward in an almost dormant way, organizing exhibitions on the history of the designer and releasing collections designed by a team of creatives. Mulier will therefore have the task of giving new life to the brand, still well known among fashion insiders, a sacred name for fashion enthusiasts, less known and appreciated by the more "generalist" public. Mulier brings "a sharp eye for construction and a sense of timeless beauty,” Alaïa chief executive Myriam Serrano said. 

Although the Richemont group acquired Alaïa in 2007, it was never a priority for the Swiss company to commercialize the designer's vision, preferring to focus on sure-profit brands, such as Cartier. In recent months, however, the group has expressed its intention to further enhance the fashion sector, opening Alaïa boutiques in the shopping streets of Paris and London, selling the collections online on Net-a-Porter and signing a fragrance deal with Shiseido. Mulier's appointment closely follows that of Gabriela Hearst at the helm of Chloé, as does the backing of AZ Factory, the brand founded and directed by Alber Elbaz, former creative director of Lanvin. Commenting on his appointment at Alaïa, Mulier stated that he will "carry forward his legacy of celebrating femininity and placing women at the heart of creation".