The tops and the flops from the Paris Men's Fashion Week

With the Celine show by Hedi Slimane last night the Paris Men's Fashion Week SS20 came to an end. Unlike the other seasons, this time it's harder to find clear and defined trends reiterated in a similar but at the same time different way by a number of designers. A lack that this time around could turn into a strength, a signal of more creativity and the will to reinterpret their aesthetic codes beyond simplistic labels. The message that arrives loud and clear from the Paris runways (as it happened a few days ago on the catwalks of Milan as well) is that streetwear is over. This moment was bound to arrive, but what's interesting is that the brands that once contributed to the spread of the phenomenon are now the responsible for its reinterpretation, as it proves well the Alyx show designed by Matthew Williams. Another topic tackled on the French catwalks is the one regarding masculinity: designers have tried to answer to a simple question 'What does it mean to be a man today and how should a man dress today?', with even contrasting results. 

TOP

Matthew Williams has given life to one of the best shows in the history of Alyx and of the Paris schedule, managing to break the barriers between technical fashion and tailoring, designing new silhouettes and using different materials without giving up Maison's iconic elements. Unripe but interesting the more girly dresses. Kim Jones confirms as the most talented and brilliant designer of his generation: with his Dior Homme show Jones has proved of being able to build an intelligent and positive dialogue with the rather large heritage of Monsieur Dior, but also with the world of contemporary art, through the collaboration with artist Daniel Arsham and RIMOWA for the accessories, meant to become instant best sellers. The collection did not differ very much from the one of the previous season, but we can't blame him, the suit with the satin drape has already become a cult item. Always working on the concepts of reconstruction and layering, Chitose Abe at sacai has shown the next chapter in the history of the brand, characterized by more feminine dresses, disassembled jackets, classic striped shirts, without losing an inch of its DNA. The talent of Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino is undisputed, this season designing an elegant and lighthearted man. 

Alyx

Alyx

Alyx

Alyx

Alyx

Dior

Dior

Dior

Dior

Dior

sacai

sacai

sacai

sacai

sacai

Valentino

Valentino

Valentino

Valentino

Valentino

FLOP

Hedi Slimane is definitely a genius: his ability to create a clear and iconic aesthetic, made of carefully designed and crafted silhouettes, is unparalleled. Once again though, watching the Celine show that closes the Paris Fashion Week there is only one word that comes to mind: boring. Of the decline of Vetements, we had already written here. Demna Gvasalia, who is also the creative director of Balenciaga, let's not forget this, has designed a rather embarrassing collection staged in a McDonald's, trying to add a political agenda and a comment against capitalism as the backdrop of the show. A debate shared also by Raf Simons, now free from the creative restrictions of Calvin Klein, who unfortunately didn't manage to be particularly powerful or effective. Also, Acne Studios seems to have lost a part of its magic touch. 

Celine

Celine

Celine

Celine

Celine

Vetements

Vetements

Vetements

Vetements

Vetements

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Acne Studios

Acne Studios

Acne Studios

TOP

If the last Fashion Week was shocked by the news of the passing of Karl Lagerfeld, this time the fashion industry has decided to dedicate an entire evening to pay homage to the genius of the legendary German designer. One night, Karl Forever, that Karl himself, always reluctant to look back and always focused on the future, would have not liked. Somehow though this event was owed to the man that has written the story of Maisons like Chloé, Fendi and above all Chanel. 

FLOP

We have to talk about Virgil Abloh, in Paris both for the Off-White and the Louis Vuitton show. Nothing special in both cases though. For his own brand, Abloh puts all on something he's a master in, sneakers, unveiling a preview of the much anticipated Nike Dunk Low in collaboration with artist Futura, while the collection is a sequence of already seen looks and prints. The Vuitton show, on the other hand, especially for the setting, recurs to a stereotyped image of the city of Paris, but the parade of stars and celebs both on the runway and in the front row provides the success of a collection characterised by a stunning colour palette but lacking really unforgettable items. 

OFF-WHITE

OFF-WHITE

OFF-WHITE

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton