What You Need To Know About The Gucci SS19 Show

Alessandro Michele leaves Milan and chooses Paris Fashion Week for the last chapter of the "French trilogy" by Gucci, a tribute to France in three parts, started in January with the pre-fall campaign that recalled the student protests of May 1968 and followed from the Cruise 2019 fashion show at Arles last May. Here's everything you need to know about Gucci's theatrical SS19 show.

 

The collection

Gucci returns and the schizophrenic aesthetic, stratified, made of a thousand inspirations and references, by Alessandro Michele returns. For the SS19 the Roman designer continues to decline his oneiric universe, including tributes to the icons of music, from Janis Joplin to David Bowie, but also to Dolly Parton portrayed on sweaters and vests in denim; bags in the shape of Mickey Mouse; party-girl from the past like Josephine Baker; inspirations from the 60s and 70s and much more. As usual, the new collection is made up of a thousand, opulent, redundant, iconic details. Everywhere you look is a multiplicity of ruches, wide sleeves, crystals, fringes, lurex, prints, pleated dresses, flared trousers, maxi necklaces, extra-large sunglasses, hats. The detail destined to become a trend? The enamel applied only on some nails. The strangest detail? The penic case, that is a shell used in the past above the men's tights to cover the private parts, but also parrots perched on the shoulders of the models. As if by magic, a spell of which only Michele and a few others know the formula, all the potential kitsch becomes harmony, beauty.

 

Set: Théatre Le Palace

Thanks to his mother, assistant to a film producer, Michele spent a lot of time between stages, curtains and scenes, learning to love these places and the magic they put on stage. Perhaps it comes from here, as well as from a great culture and counter-culture, the choice of the historic Théatre Le Palace as the location of the last Gucci fashion show. This special building on Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre 8, which mixes vintage atmospheres with an underground mood, was the favorite haunt of legendary characters such as Lagerfeld, Roland Barthes, Andy Warhol, Mick Jagger, Mugler, Yves Saint-Laurent or Jean-Paul Goude. Here, in the period around the Nouvelle Vague, between gallons of champagne and masked parties, were mixed fashion, luxury, art and unbridled fun.

 

 

The Show

Darkness in the hall. A slight buzz of voices in the background is broken by the projection of an underground and experimental version of Lady Machbeth, by Leo de Bernardinis and Perla Peragallo. The two artists are exponents of the theatrical movement of the Roman Cellars, a phenomenon born in the 60s characterized by the union between high culture and popular culture. As Michele is able to mix everything from Renaissance art to Mickey Mouse. "I wanted to change the rules of traditional theater", says the designer of Gucci, deus ex machina of an upside down downshift of the fashion show that, instead of proceeding from the front towards the center, follows the opposite direction. So, while the guests, seated on the armchairs of the theater, are watching the movie, behind them, from the foyer of the room, the models begin to appear, which, illuminated by a dim light, have climbed onto the stage, where they remained until the end of the show. At a certain point the soundtrack composed of a mix of rave sounds, excerpts of works and metropolitan noises, is broken by the live performance of the legendary Jane Birkin who sings "Baby Alone in Babylon". The curtain closes and applause begins.

 

 

Front Row

 

There are 784 guests occupying the seats of the Théatre Le Palace, including fashionistas, insiders and celebrities. Easy to recognize Balenciaga designer, Demna Gvasalia; the muse of Dalì, Amanda Lear; Francois Pinault with his wife Salma Hayek; the famous artist Maurizio Cattelan; the director Floria Sigismondi; Jane Birkin and her daughter Lou Doillon; the CEO of Gucci Marco Bizzarri; chef Massimo Bottura, Faye Dunaway and Soko, protagonists of the advertising campaign for Sylvie Bag; Petra Collins; Hari Nef and Jared Leto, dear friend and fan of Alessandro Michele.

 

Fun Facts

 

The invitation for the Gucci SS19 show is an envelope containing tulips bulbs and freesias, ready to be planted. Is not it perfect for the hot season? Without underlining the symbolic imagery of a flower that blooms, almost a new beginning in the name of beauty.