Jacquemus SS18: 'La Bombe'

The Paris fashion week, the latest round in a long line of clothing dedicated to Womenswear begins with the Jacquemus SS18 fashion show.

The handsome Simon Porte brings on the catwalk a tribute to the dead mother in a car crash just 42 when the designer was still a teenager and he does so with a solar, warm, sexy, joyful collection.

The set

For the first time in its history, the Picasso Museum in Paris opens its doors to a fashion events.

Is that a recognition of Simon Porte’s talent?

Maybe. Certainly, it’s so the presence in the front row of a fashion history’s icon like Pierre Cardin, who, together with Emily Ratajkowski, Caroline de Maigret, Jeanne Damas, and other French it-girls, are waiting to see the show.

The collection

"I was looking at a photograph of my mother walking through the port one summer. She had a scarf around her head, and these ceramic earrings and a pareo tied around her. She was always smiling and happy. I don’t think I ever saw my mother more beautiful than on evenings after the beach and probably when she was in love. (Or evenings when) We went for a walk around the port, passing alongside souvenir shops filled with earrings, ceramics, sarongs, and headbands".

This image is described with loving nostalgia by the designer as the starting point for La Bombe”, the latest collection presented by Jacquemus.

For this new set of creations, Porte leaves aside the buildings that are too artificial and embraces warm colors and soft and asymmetrical shapes, retaining as a display of its technical excellence a single element: the drapery. Blouses are simple; the mini cocktail dresses and monochromatic hug the body as would a tee worn after a swim on wet skin; the knotted tulip skirts; basic suits; pants to the calf; tops are worn with new versions of sarong knotted on the hips. To complete the look mismatched earrings, huge straw hats with a wide brim, shoes with heels futurists.

At the end of the parade remains a certain warmth, the idyllic vision that a son has of his mother who loved and lost too soon, a reminder that the time has filtered through the sun, the sea, the southern mythology of France, but also other.

It is an interesting collection in its naturalness, sensual, full of, more or less, unconscious elegance.

One thing that the French remain unattainable.