Give me five: the best 5 moments of Milan Men's Fashion Week SS18

Stripes and prints, flowers and color, comics and sportswear, surfers, contemporary samurai and dandy with dégagé style.

The man of SS18, according to the designers of the Milan Men's Fashion Week, will choose basic garments such as shorts, raincoats, tracksuits, and jumpsuits (for Prada real must for the season) and decline them, daring, with palm prints, cocktails, multicolor stripes, comics illustrated and lively patterns.

And if fashion presented in London the week looked to the future with fear and mistrust, assuming dark scenarios, the Italian told a different reality, made of lightness, humor, and joy.

 

Curious? Here are the 5 most interesting collections for nss.

Prada

The comics like fragments of stories, but also as a vehicle of a humanity ever suspended between what is real and what is not.

Miuccia Prada uses her SS18 collection to tell this duality.

"I am between two poles", says Prada’s designer, "On one side it is the virtual reality immerses us in a constant flow of stories and information. On the one hand, there is the virtual reality immerses us in a constant flow of stories and information.On the other hand, I felt a new thought, almost an obsession: comics. I have never read them before, but I started to be interested in the subject for a reason that I only discovered later. These illustrations provide fragments of stories, just like virtuality, but with a much more human connotation. The pencil sketches, the dynamic with which they are created, are the exact opposite of virtuality. I thought of a collection so, something deeply human, something that can be described with the simple stroke of a pencil". 

This research on human and technological coexistence turns into fabric, seams, cuts. It becomes a proposal for concrete clothes made of tailored coats, jumpsuits ( the new obsession of Mrs. Miuccia) and nylon bomber jackets, pants stopped by a velcro ankle, heavy wool cardigan, cotton shirts, full jacket and pants in pastel colors, Shorts worn with high knee-high socks and sandals at the feet.

 

From the headquarters in Via Fogazzaro to the garments of the collection, everything is a white sheet on which to draw a story, a graphic novel illustrated by Belgian Ollie Schrauwen and Taiwanese-American James Jean, in which the protagonists are not superheroes, but robot laser-eyed space monkeys, abandoned cityscapes, suburban skies, a random giant ant reminding a ‘50s sci-fi story and alienated characters wearing VR headsets.

Marni

Francesco Risso with his latest collection for Marni choose to dress a child led by their whims, a well to do boy who "daydreaming, falls asleep and wakes up dressed in a new way", falling into a never-ending vacation and "giving up rules, allowing randomness to shape his own bits and pieces".

Between feeling and surrealism, sweetness and quiet eccentricity with the Parisian flavor, the shapes become soft and enveloping; pants and trench large and bulky; coats and jackets are sloping; asymmetrical closures and live cuts; the lengths are looking for a balance; the shirts overlap; the pinstriped office suits are accessorized with «ties lopsided» and bibs with sketches of faces and wild animals designed for the occasion by Magdalena Suarez make their debut. The magic of childhood wraps every piece of this collection for the SS18, delineating the traits of a deconstructed figure, crinkled and at the same time romantic and refined.

Sunnei

Number 27 via Camillo, Milan.

In the corridors of an art institute Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo present the new men’s collection of Sunnei.

The premises? The inspiration comes from the present, from the guys around us, from their style, their attitude to the idea of freedom that accompanies them. The result is a series of garments rethought in streetwear key, made of modern materials, but closer to traditional tailoring, complete with printed pajamas that look; t-shirts with the image of Tom Anderson, the founder of MySpace; baggy pants; boowling shirts decorated with martini and piña colada glasses; cotton striped and copper-colored or silver suits.

Sunnei’s SS18 collection is young, fresh, tells the joy and freedom of the last day of school.

Palm Angels

With Black Sun, the latest collection designed for Palm Angels by Francesco Ragazzi takes us on a trip through California 3.0.

In his hands, surf culture of U.S. state moves away from the sunny and easy-to-wear stereotype of the ‘60s and the Beach Boys, incorporating a rebellious spirit, obscured by the Op Pro Riot’s memory when in 1986 on a Huntington beach during a major surfing contest a group of men exhorted some bikini ladies to undress, triggering a revolt with destroyed cars, heavily damaged locals, fires and police riot police. With these images in the eyes, in an industrial space filled with truckloads of sand, alternate models of Palm Angels. They wear colorful trousers, oversized nylon trousers, hoodies and kimono-style sleeves, printed k-way, industrial buckle-waist jackets.

It is a gang of angry, rebellious surfers, but, despite this, multicolor, covered with palm trees, stripes and a veil of hope.

Between the SS18 garments there is the collaboration for a capsule collection with the Sundek swimwear brand, including nylon pants, shorts and skirts, featuring Sundek's typical rainbow stripes.

Damir Doma

Damir Doma changes course.

With the co-ed Milanese show dedicated to the SS18, he goes far from his characteristic gothic mood to embrace a more urban and street style thanks to the capsule collection in collaboration with Lotto. The designer introduces color, touches of lilac, mustard and bright green; floral prints and jacquards inspired by Moroccan mosaics. Athleisure pieces such as polo, tracksuits and windbreakers coexist with jerseys, denim patchwork, long silk shirts, trench-parka and jackets sewn as corsets. 

The one presented during the last Milan Fashion Week is a collection that celebrates the journey by exploring the theme of diversification, mixing different styles, colors, prints and fabrics, as well as heterogeneous patterns that wear them.

Damir Doma wants to create a line in which the public can identify themselves, real clothes for real people, and, to emphasize this intention, brings on the catwalk friends from different worlds: fashion journalists, artists, designers, make up artists and musicians like new talents of the Italian rap Ghali.