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Americana - Raf Simons debuts Calvin Klein FW 17 collection

Five things to know about the ready-to-wear collection that pays homage to New York and beyond

Americana - Raf Simons debuts Calvin Klein FW 17 collection Five things to know about the ready-to-wear collection that pays homage to New York and beyond

Raf Simons with Calvin Klein was the first big name to open yesterday the New York Fashion Week. Long awaited, he did not disappoint anyone - and we had no doubts about it. The good taste of Raf Simmons and his talent as amazing innovator is already universally known - and recognized - throughout all Europe thanks to its previous commitments with Jil Sander and Christian Dior. In 2017 it was officially time for Simons to conquer the American continent, through a reworking without perversion of one of their most beloved brand: Calvin Klein. Here's what - unfortunately - we've all lost.

#1 THE MAIN THEME: AMERICANA 
If for his first menswear FW 17 collection at Calvin Klein, Raf Simons created a modern tribute to what makes iconic New York, from its more touristic appearance to its classic imagery, for women's fashion week he blends masculine and feminine in a collection dedicated to the varied mix of styles and cultures that makes great not only New York but whole America. The collection, called Parade, explores the archetypal american aesthetics  as  see by an external.

#2 THE LOCATION
Taking place at the New York headquarters of Calvin Klein, the fashion show was held under an installation by Sterling Ruby, frequent collaborator of Raf Simons. "Sterling Ruby imagines America" ​​is the new permanent installation by the Californian artist - the first part of a triptych not yet revealed - in which engine parts, cutted red, white and blue fabrics hang from the ceiling accompanied by rusted denim rectangles, dried metal and at least an escape room. The work designed especially for the event, represents the designer's require to achieve "a work appropriate for Calvin Klein".


#3 THE SOUND
It is along the tune of the colossal "This Is Not America" ​​by David Bowie, which Simons has decided to make his collection run on the catwalk: dresses defined by sharp contrasts and different fabrics - from PVC to denim to leather lucid - where oversize and skinny come together in a wonderful cosmopolitan mix. As for his first line with Calvin Klein, America is the center of Raf Simons vision: lit yellow, blue and red combined with various shades of white and neutral nuanche; paying homage to the American flag in a magnificent sartorial manifesto.

#4 THE 205 DETAIL
Printed on collars, bags and few other elements presented during the parade, this mysterious number is nothing but Calvin Klein's HQ building number - as well as the ultimate confirmation for the extreme attention to detail of Raf Simons.

#5 THE FRONT ROW
No one lost the event. The selection for the front row  saw historical icons of Clavin Klein's advertising and old fan as Lauren Hutton, Brooke Shields and Anna Wintour sitting alongside the latest official brand ambassadors - like Millie Bobby Brown and ASAP Rocky - and various celebrities.