The uniforms to watch for at the Olympic opening ceremony

After months of preparations and a long journey leading up to it, the countdown to the XXXIII edition of the Olympic Games has finally come to an end. The opening ceremony scheduled for tonight in Paris will kick off the most anticipated sporting event of 2024, featuring the traditional parade of the 206 national delegations, starting at 7:30 PM, including this year’s team of refugees. For the first time in Olympic history, the event will not take place in a stadium—unlike the closing ceremony, which will be held at the Stade de France—but rather along the streets of the French capital; more precisely, along the banks and waters of the Seine, where approximately 320,000 spectators (also a record) will accompany the flotilla of boats representing participating countries in a scenic route: 6 kilometers, from the Pont d'Austerlitz to the Trocadero, passing by some of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

The show is expected to last nearly four hours, featuring choreographies, artistic performances, and the customary speech by President Emmanuel Macron, set against a backdrop enhanced by the stylish choices of the various delegations. That is, the uniforms worn by the over 8,000 athletes who are the stars of an occasion that traditionally winks at fashion and involves renowned designers from around the world—and how could it be otherwise in the year when the Olympic torch visits the fashion capital? The organizers have arranged several areas from which to watch the ceremony, many of which are accessible for free, along with a series of big screens and speakers to bridge the distance between the stands and the boats. On the boats, in addition to athletes and representatives, there will be "reporters" from the television crew, who will bring on board those watching on TV.

The attire of the participants is a significant and much-anticipated component of the event, due to the mix of aesthetic taste, symbolism, and identity elements that characterize the five-ring uniforms. Over the next two weeks, alongside the busy schedule set for the 39 disciplines of this edition, we will see each delegation showcase their looks in various categories, from athletics to swimming and beyond. From competition kits to those for podium ceremonies, and finally to the closing ceremony of the Games on August 11—let's take it one step at a time, starting with the parade scheduled on the Seine in the coming hours. Here’s a preview and a brief introduction to the outfits destined to catch the eye of millions of viewers connected from every corner of the world: we have selected ten—listed in geographical order rather than preference—that combine style, tradition, and creativity in the most interesting forms.

France

It’s fitting to start with the host country, which has announced—predictably—that it has created kits and uniforms for every occasion, collaborating with different brands and designers. For tonight’s ceremony, the uniform for the French team is designed by Berluti, an Italian brand owned by LVMH with a long tradition in Parisian fashion shows, where it is based. Berluti, together with Carine Roitfeld, former editor-in-chief of French Vogue, has designed a line of refined tailored tuxedos (sleeveless for female athletes) in midnight blue, with lapels that echo the colors of the flag, elegantly shaded and matched with the pocket square. Each outfit features the inscription "Artisan of all victories" inside.

Italy

Next, we move across the Alps to the second outfit of the showcase, that of the blue-clad Italian athletes. Once again, the designer is Emporio Armani, a constant presence since London 2012, just like the navy blue uniforms. As suggested by the podium sweatshirts (with the inscription "W Italia" on the chest) and the pre-competition polos (featuring the tricolor on the collar), the direction chosen by Giorgio Armani—who just turned 90—for the 2024 delegation is clear. That is, the celebration of national pride, which we will see tonight in the elegant jackets featuring the entire first stanza of the "Inno di Mameli" (the Italian national anthem) on the inside.

Great Britain

For the third and final stop before crossing the ocean, the British team is once again dressed by Ben Sherman, just like in Tokyo and Rio de Janeiro. While in football we are used to seeing England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland compete separately, in the Olympic context, the four nations present themselves together under the Union Flag; this cohesion will also be reflected in the uniforms through the four national symbols—the rose, thistle, daffodil, and shamrock—featured in the floral pattern on the back of the jacket and on the socks (designed together with Happy Socks). "The idea was to represent the unity and diversity of the United Kingdom"—explains the creative director of the British brand, Mark Williams—"reflecting the rich tapestry of our nation's identity." The jacket is paired with a white polo with a blue and red geometric pattern and Oxford pants.

United States

Much discussed yet equally bold and distinctive, the choice of Ralph Lauren—making its ninth appearance with Team USA—roots itself in American tradition and one of its distinctive traits, not only in the collective imagination: blue jeans. "Nothing is more American than jeans", confirms David Lauren, son of the founder and chief innovation officer of the historic brand. Completing a decidedly casual look, the top consists of a single-breasted blazer paired with an Oxford shirt, featuring patterns evoking white and blue stripes; underneath, light denim jeans are complemented by a classic preppy suede shoe from Ralph Lauren.

Haiti

From the Caribbean, with an Italian touch by Stella Jean, comes one of the most intriguing proposals of these Olympics. It has already garnered considerable public appreciation even before its official debut. "For these athletes, simply being here is a victory", says the Roman designer about Haiti's five-ring team, which consists of only twelve athletes. The Central American country has been dramatically afflicted in recent years by political instability and social unrest, which, alongside natural disasters, have contributed to reducing a large part of the population to poverty. "This will be the first good news to come in the last three years," continues Stella Jean, "and for this reason, I felt the responsibility to share as much as possible about the country." Here is an outfit that exudes vital energy from every detail and especially from every color, inspired by the painting Passage by Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, reflected in the feminine design of the chambray shirt (paired with a vest), and in the masculine trousers (with a guayabera-style jacket).

Mongolia

Speaking of intriguing proposals that have already received much public appreciation, we move from the Caribbean to East Asia for the outfit that will dress the Mongolian delegation. Designers Michel Choigaalaa and Amazonka Choigaalaa have handcrafted each piece, spending about 20 hours on each garment, creating a suit clearly inspired by national tradition, especially in the silhouette of the "deel," the tunic. The uniform is enriched with details, embroidery, stitching, and earrings that reflect the blue-red-white of the flag and depict folkloric symbols of Mongolian culture, such as the Soyombo and the Gua-Maral deer. All of this includes some modern elements and references to the context, such as the Eiffel Tower and the Olympic flame.

South Korea

Tradition and modernity also combine in the outfit designed by Musinsa Standard (a brand managed by the eponymous Korean e-commerce) for the athletes coming from Seoul. The blazers feature engravings in blue and white porcelain on the lining, with a belt and trousers in traditional Korean style, and a fine “total light blue” color scheme.

Taiwan

On the other side of the East China Sea, moving from a peninsula to an Asian island, the third-to-last stop on this tour is Taiwan ("Chinese Taipei" in the official designation). After the highly praised outfit for the Olympics four (three, actually) years ago, the brand JUST IN XX and its founder Justin Chou have confirmed a blend of modern streetwear, local craftsmanship, and traditional tailoring, thanks to the contributions of various Taiwanese artists (Paul Chiang, Lin Pei-Ying, Yan Yu-Ying, and Kokia Lin). The highlight? The optical illusion that seems to transform the inscription "Chinese Taipei" into "Cheer On," much to the delight of those observing from Beijing.

India

Kurta and bundi for men, sari for women: these are the choices made by the brand Tasva and designer Tarun Tahiliani to dress the Indian delegation, with garments that belong to local culture reinterpreted with a touch of modernity. The typical Bengali shirt for men is paired with a sleeveless jacket, while the female athletes will parade wrapped in a piece of fabric and, underneath, churidar trousers. All in white with green and orange borders, mirroring the colors of the flag.

Australia

The green and gold that we are used to seeing the Australian National Team in—symbols of its beaches, crops, and forests—are an integral part of the visual impact of the uniforms designed by Sportscraft, the last in this selection. The green blazer with golden buttons is paired with khaki shorts for men and green-gold skirts for women, all adorned with decorations inspired by indigenous artworks by former boxer Paul Fleming and artist David Bosun. The detail that enriches the outfit is the refined inscriptions inside the jacket, featuring the names of all the Australian athletes—over three hundred—who have stood on the top step of the Olympic podium.