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For over a decade, Willy Chavarria has been making waves. It’s rare for a designer’s vision to be so sharp and defined while showcasing such a broad aesthetic range: Chavarria manages to touch nearly every chord of American style, from cowboys to modern sportswear, and of course, his renowned tailoring. His wide proportions, which sometimes verge on oversized lapels and collars, have become a signature in recent years. On the occasion of the tenth anniversary of his brand, with his business significantly expanded, Chavarria presented his show at the Cathédrale Américaine in Paris. A show that became one of the most-followed and appreciated events of the menswear season marked a significant step for Chavarria, whose journey into fashion began in an unexpected context: Fresno, California. «I grew up in a very countryside area of California», the designer told us when we met him the day after the show. «So so I didn't grow up around fashion whatsoever. It was very foreign to to me and my community», he recounted. Yet his fascination with style was deeply personal. «My inspiration was really just style, personal style and the way that people would dress themselves around me to really show how they reflected a certain demographic or a certain group of people that they wanted to be belong to or be perceived to belong to». This curiosity emerged during his childhood when he would spend time drawing people, often inspired by movies. «I was obsessed with dresses, women in dresses, falling out of buildings. I don't know why I drew this all the time, but I like to see the way the dress would flow. And so I drew that a lot».
Although his initial career ambitions leaned towards advertising and graphic design, a pivotal job at Joe Boxer, a company specializing in underwear, introduced him to the world of fashion, eventually leading him to work for Ralph Lauren. «I learned that there was this universe of designing fashion and clothes for people and that it could be a way to make a living,» Chavarria told us. «I got excited about it and decided to pursue it». From these unconventional beginnings, including a stint as creative director at American Eagle Outfitters and many seasons of shows in New York, arriving in Paris wasn’t unexpected for Chavarria. Instead, it was the culmination of «a very natural progression for an American designer. As the business grows and the brand expands, it’s important to touch other parts of the world. Paris, being probably the most elevated and centralized location to show a collection, gave it a global voice and offered my European buyers the opportunity to see the show.» Standing shoulder to shoulder with Parisian luxury giants wasn’t a problem for a designer like Chavarria, who believes that «luxury fashion is just very boring. There's nothing interesting about it. And it's very seldom that you see something new and exciting that's actually worth purchasing. It's the same designers shifting around to every house. The collections are just more of the same. While there is some beauty there, it just really isn't moving the needle enough to stir emotion in people. That's why I think that I've been lucky in that my brand touches a part of people. It’s deeper than just wanting to get a new, expensive item.»
When it comes to creating clothes, Chavarria believes their beauty «depends on who's wearing the garment. Because, you know, the beauty in a garment can be different for each different type of personality or person that's wearing it. I do really love when a garment makes you feel empowered. I really enjoy a strong shoulder, even if it's a more relaxed body. You know, I love a strong shoulder and I love a relaxed bottom. I like the the bottom to be very relaxed so that there's no constriction. You know, I don't like tight pants very much at all. I think that clothes should be comfortable primarily because if they're not comfortable within the first like five hours, then it's just costume». This desire to combine strong shoulders with comfort inspired Chavarria to conceive his now-famous tailored suit « that you can throw on in the morning with sneakers and go through your day casually running around everywhere, sweating, screaming, getting upset. And then in the evening, you just wash your face and you put on a nice pair of shoes, and then you go to meet someone for dinner in the same suit.» Another recurring theme in his shows is religious iconography, which adds depth and nuance to Chavarria’s coherent yet varied world. «I do have my own religious beliefs that tie very closely to those aesthetics,» the designer said when we asked him about it. «My arms are covered with religious tattoos, actually. So I like to hold these aesthetics and stories very close to me. But I also think it's very important to tell these stories through a modern voice. We're so used to hearing these stories come from very, very traditional translations that aren't always very accepting of so many people. So I think it's important to give value to everyone and still associate them with the beauty of what Catholicism or Christianity may offer». Many commentators on his latest show have described his tailored pieces as "Sunday church suits," though, as the designer confirmed, they weren’t exactly conceived that way: «When you see these, these models in the church wearing the suits, carrying the rosaries, suddenly it is the Sunday suit. But I think it's great that they can wear the Sunday suit to mass and then go out to the gay night club and be there until seven in the morning.»
Both classic tailoring and everyday, sportswear-inspired clothing rooted in streetwear share a common origin in Chavarria’s focus on the final product—clothes he himself wears in his personal wardrobe, which seamlessly aligns with his fashion offering. Chavarria attributes his Californian roots and street culture to the interplay between formal and informal elements in his work, citing «a very American sensibility. It's a very California sensibility» that «comes from street culture where you purchase these sportswear items as your key luxury pieces. So, you know, you may be investing in a jersey, a football jersey that is your number one fashion piece, and that is what you wear with your dress pants. You know, with the blazer in my case. So I think it's very natural to have those things come together». In this game of volumes, streetwear, and tailoring that reveals and conceals the body, the idea of sensuality plays a significant role. «I like the idea of sensuality through the expression of my clothing a bit more than sexuality. Just because sexuality is very easy, you know. So I think that when the body is covered up a bit more, it's a bit more inviting, which is why some of the looks like Paloma’s, for example. Her dress is very form fitted, but it's up to the neck and it's long sleeve, but it's very form fitted and padded in the hip. So it really accentuates like this sensuality, but still quite covered». Even his collaboration with adidas included «these beautiful, like superhero men with gorgeous bodies and amazing, like shorts and cool shoes, just like warriors». For Chavarria, «even with all of the oppression that we see in the, in the world currently, there is a very exciting movement of sexual expression that is more it's newer and more forward thinking than we've ever seen before.» It’s, as we said, a broad vision with well-defined boundaries: you can immediately tell when a certain look is signed by Chavarria, who considers integrity of vision «what makes a good designer. Because I think that when brands or companies need to study the trends in order to build their business or make their business go a certain way, it immediately strips that brand of like passion and identity. So I think that if you look at some of the stronger brands, like, Rick Owens or Ralph Lauren - these are brands that really just kind of persevere according to their own, their own clock. You know, they do their own thing. They set trends every now and then and then. Sometimes this trend just skips them, but they remain intact of their integrity. And that becomes more powerful than the trend».
Chavarria’s show in Paris not only marked his brand’s tenth anniversary but also occurred during a politically charged moment for American society. «All of American fashion will be influenced greatly by the new political structure in many different ways,» the designer told us, «whether it be a drastic shift in manufacturing, to adjust to shift in where the fabrics are imported from or purchased from to; or the concepts that brands have. From the larger brands, we may see more conservative behavior and watering down any kind of message so that they're are delivering something a little bit bland because they are afraid to take risks and lose customers but I think independent brands will act with courage and not be afraid of some of the new laws and new restrictions that the government is trying to impose». At a policy level, Chavarria also expressed faith in the consistency of indie American fashion, which stays committed to the broader message it sends alongside its products: «I think for some of the smaller brands or some of the more strong brands will not be afraid to take risk and will be just as influenced by having the right position in history and having the respect for mankind that is necessary right now». It’s a complex moment, but it won’t deter Chavarria from his vision: «The dream has changed. But the dream stays. It shifts as I learn more, see more of the world, and understand the complexities of running a business But ultimately it's the same. Same core vision, which is to have a brand that sells product that is not just a commodity but it's something that represents a much larger story. And the story is one of of love.»
Throught out the story full looks WILLY CHAVARRIA
CREDITS:
Photographer Eva Losada
Photographer Ass. Marcos Parra
MUAH Roger Cho
Interview Lorenzo Salamone
CREDITS:
Photographer Eva Losada
Photographer Ass. Marcos Parra
MUAH Roger Cho
Interview Lorenzo Salamone