In recent years, the fashion industry has seen fewer designers willing to challenge its rigid systems—whether due to a lack of boldness or interest. However, one name that consistently defies the norm is Nigerian-British designer Mowalola Ogunlesi. With her namesake brand, Mowalola, and collaborations with high-profile figures like Kanye West and JT, Mowalola has quickly become one of the most talked-about designers today. Her bold, multi-disciplinary approach seamlessly merges fashion and art, creating a brand that pushes boundaries and invites mass audiences to engage with fashion on a deeper level. Central to Mowalola’s success is her unique outlook on fashion and identity. Born in Lagos and raised on the outskirts of London, Mowalola’s early exposure to fashion came through her mother, a designer herself. «Her brand was crazy 'cause it was children's clothes, and I think that was because she was inspired by us as kids,» Mowalola reflects. «She would do these fashion shows, and we would make a whole performance around it. So this aspect of entertainment with creation was always something that was ingrained in me.»

This early immersion into creativity and performance set the foundation for her studies at Central Saint Martins, where she honed her craft. Though initially intimidated by the idea of creating a final collection, Mowalola eventually found her stride: «When I got to final year, it just felt like I had gone through all the things I liked throughout the years and compiled them. It just felt really easy.» Her time at Central Saint Martins was defined not only by technical growth but also by the connections she forged along the way, which would later prove essential as she built her brand. After earning her bachelor's degree, Mowalola embarked on a master’s program but made the decision to drop out, a move she describes as the most liberating thing she could have done. «When I dropped out, I started going out, meeting people, and having fun. That’s where I met the team who did the styling, makeup, and casting for my first collection,» she recalls. It was during this time of exploration that Mowalola found inspiration for her collection Coming For Blood drawn from her experience in a turbulent relationship. «It was the first time I was in a relationship with a girl, and I had never felt so madly in love. The collection describes all the brutalist pains of being in a toxic relationship.»

Unlike many designers who follow trends, Mowalola works at the beat of an artist,  drawing inspiration from deeply personal and real-life moments, a practice that often lends a political undertone to her collections. However, she remains undeterred by controversy: «I don’t get why fashion makes people so angry. Different forms of art get accepted way more. I don’t care about fitting in a box—my goal in life is to have the freedom to create how I wish». Her fearless embrace of self-expression continues to challenge conventional norms in the industry. A key element of Mowalola’s success to not fit in a box is her ability to transcend the boundaries of fashion by collaborating with creatives from various disciplines. Whether through music, film, or performance, she uses fashion as a medium to tell stories. «Why would I ever limit myself to one thing? Music and film inspire fashion and vice versa. I feel connected to all these different disciplines, and in my work, I owe it to myself to explore them properly.» One of her most iconic collaborations is the Beats by Dre campaign featuring rapper JT. Initially, the brand wanted to use Bella Hadid, but Mowalola pushed for a different narrative. «Though I love Bella, I wanted to make it more about uplifting and elevating the self-expression of Black female rap. Growing up, we had Aaliyah and Lil’ Kim, and the relationship designers had with these female rappers created so much amazing shit.»

Her friendship with Kanye West has also played a significant role in her journey, from being appointed creative director of his GAP «our relationship is so much deeper than just fashion. When we started working together, he called me and we spoke for hours about so many things. I eventually went out to Calabasas to see him and decided I didn’t want to work with him yet because I really wanted to spend time figuring myself out and who I was as a person and as a brand and that was more important than anything else. Then lockdown happened and he asked me to make some looks for North’s birthday — which was so fun —  and eventually asked me to join him at GAP, but it really was just getting to know each other creatively because he has taught me so much.» Despite the valuable lessons she learned from her collaborations, Mowalola’s experience with major corporations, such as her role as Creative Director for Kanye’s GAP partnership, also revealed the constraints of working with large companies. «It taught me how rigid corporations are with creation. They don't really respect the journey it takes to come up with good ideas.» Yet, she remains undeterred, emphasizing the importance of creative freedom and community building: «There are so many designers and creatives out there who want to work on stuff, so balancing the work with people who you want to see thrive is crucial. In my team, I now have people from Korea, Nigeria, Spain, America, and more. Thriving in this industry is about community building.»