A strong and decisive gaze, almost statuesque: as soon as we arrive on the photo shoot set, Yoon Ahn remains impassive, while sitting on a folding chair, as if she were directing the most important movie of her life. You can sense it from her seriousness, from the fact that she hasn't uttered a word to her team members, surrounded by distressed V-neck sweaters, long-sleeve polos, unisex skirts, bombers, scarves, and all kinds of jewellery paying homage to the roots of her brand. The designer's gaze is fixed on the stylists' hands as they meticulously adjust a balaclava on a model, just as on the photographers' camera as it captures the looks against a beige backdrop. There's noise in every corner of the room, but not around Yoon Ahn. Amidst the chaos, the creative utters her first words since our arrival, not coincidentally about the perennial issue of streetwear: «I think nowadays we can still talk about streetwear. Style has evolved, and for this reason, we should be curious to see how it will be interpreted in the future by all fashion players.»
We find ourselves on the set of the FW24 collection shoot for AMBUSH®︎, a brand that has penned a decisive chapter of the "Hypebeast Era" yet still has much to say today. A famous photo circulates on the internet, taken in 2020 during the Nike Forum Show in New York, featuring Yoon Ahn alongside Travis Scott, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Drake, Martine Rose, Tom Sachs, Errolson Hugh, Hiroshi Fujiwara, and Matthew Williams: they are the chosen adherents of the Swoosh, the creatives who have brought to life collaborations eagerly awaited by sneakerheads (and others). It's a snapshot of a historical period in which Ahn had begun to lead the streetwear scene, one of the very few female figures who continues to know how to fuel a 'new language of fashion'. Despite talking about a radical change in the "scene," she refuses to separate herself from what contributed to making her creative journey unique. «What I love most about the career I've pursued is the opportunity to explore different worlds in the way I prefer. Working simultaneously with AMBUSH®︎ and as Global Women’s Curator for Nike helps me best express what I've always been dedicated to: the study of human beings. It doesn't make a difference to me whether I showcase the results of my research through AMBUSH®︎ or Nike, because the two roles influence each other.»
The focus of our conversation is to understand how the work changes for a designer when the cultural milieu they've been immersed in for years suddenly shifts; when the stage on which they perform is abruptly no longer the same. «Fashion and pop culture have undergone many changes compared to a few years ago. What has changed the most is the level of knowledge among enthusiasts: people feel more familiar with brands and designers, thanks to social media. They expect more and more from a brand, which risks disappointing their expectations. However, AMBUSH®︎ will always remain AMBUSH®︎. The brand's goal will never be to please the audience just for the sake of it or to keep up with market trends. And above all, in the creative process, we will never copy other brands even if it might work in terms of sales.»
Yoon Ahn is a designer: she believes it's a profession to honour, respect, and love; she feels grateful for what destiny has bestowed upon her. It's evident from her words and also from the devotion with which she pronounces them. «I've always dreamed of everything I've achieved. When I was young, I worked part-time in a library, and for me, besides being a job, it was my little window into the world that I hadn't known until then. Starting from a small library, I then discovered other cultural mediums: first music, then fashion, which have shaped the me of now.» The fact that Yoon Ahn dedicates the same passion as always to her work doesn't mean the brand hasn't explored new frontiers. «For a long time now, AMBUSH®︎ has not been just a 'simple' jewellery brand: our creativity has increased exponentially because the brand has always had a single mission, to grow daily. AMBUSH®︎ is not like other brands: we want to chart our own path and surprise our audience made up of many different niches daily. That's why among the recently released products are pieces inspired by Blokecore, Ivy League, and Japanese kimonos. The clothes I create with my team are the result of the vibes I feel at a given moment. The collections are varied because they reflect my mind and my inspirations; there doesn't necessarily have to be a common thread among the pieces released.»
During a break, Yoon Ahn stands up and poses for our team's photographer: we've been at the location for about 40 minutes, and it's the first time she shares a smile with us, abandoning her beloved director's chair at least for a moment. But she has no intention of losing control. Austere, unyielding, and lucid: an attitude that is reflected in her way of being, in the clothes she imagines, and in the 360-degree vision that distinguishes her, above all in what she maintains when we ask for her opinion regarding the position of women in the contemporary fashion scene: «It's not true at all that inclusivity doesn't exist in fashion. In the luxury sector, women have held prominent positions, just think of figures like Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace, Jeanne Lanvin, and Rei Kawakubo. There are fewer in the streetwear field, but it's not a sector that tends to exclude women. We should focus on the technical or market skills of designers, not on gender.»
Yoon Ahn is solely focused on the journey of her brand, on the meaning of each garment or accessory. «For the SS24 season, we are once again exploring the idea of uniform, this time focusing on preppy style. The idea of uniform in clothing is very important because it puts everyone on the same level and especially pushes them to differentiate themselves using accessories or flaunting unique hairstyles. The uniform also has an ironic aspect: if you wear one, you have to think of a stylistic trick to stand out from the next person, it's fun.» The key to the success and sincerity of Yoon Ahn's creations also lies in her ambivalent perspective: looking forward without losing identity, both of herself and of the brand.
CREDITS:
Photographer: Ivo Sekulovski
Video Contents: Ilaria Grande
Interview: Andrea Mascia