Is Italian coffee actually good?

Italy has a great tradition of coffee, which is a well-established fact. For years, the American giant Starbucks had refused to open a location in the country, as the Italian DNA is unequivocally tied to espresso. It was precisely the Italians' love for coffee that, in 1983, inspired Howard Schultz, the brand’s CEO, to create a coffee house reminiscent of the community of Italian neighborhood bars. And yet, it seems that Italy is the “Republic of bad coffee”, at least according to the Sunday program on Rai 3, Report. For those unfamiliar, “ciofeca” is a derogatory term used to describe a drink of poor taste, which over time has become synonymous with something poorly done. In some regions more than others, coffee is almost a state affair. Among the main capitals is Naples, where every corner hosts a bar convinced of having deciphered the sacred coffee code. However, eight times out of ten, the espresso ends up being burnt. It should be noted that Neapolitan tradition favors a dark, ultra-roasted bean, which gives espresso its intense and bold flavor. But coffee doesn’t always have to be a punch in the stomach. In fact, the lighter the roast, the more the nuances of the bean emerge, giving the “tazzullella” a sweet and complex taste. There are also many urban legends about coffee, whether at home or at the bar: the filter should not be cleaned to “preserve” the taste of the grounds; the cup must be at the same temperature as the liquid to avoid “trauma” to the coffee; and the bean, even if stored in a hopper, risks losing its ideal humidity due to exposure to air. But in Italy, does the quality of coffee truly matter, or is it just the break that counts?

Report, rather than documenting, leveraged Neapolitan pride, engaging in a sort of “rage bait.” Comparing the tradition of Neapolitan bars – chaotic, busy, and familiar – with a modern bar in Udine, technologically advanced and openly opposing the old school, inevitably provokes predictable reactions. Attacking baristas, considered in Naples as figures halfway between a family member and a therapist, makes the issue at times classist and elitist. At the start of the feature, many behind the counter responded to the question “Where did you study?” by stating that experience was their teacher, often beginning during their teenage years. Moreover, if the only competent baristas interviewed are from Northern Italy, while the culprits of the “death of the coffee bean” are identified solely as Neapolitans, the program risks reinforcing a well-known cultural bias. However, Naples does not lack specialty coffee spots, such as It’s, Ventimetriquadri, and Caffè Sansone, though it seems the program deliberately avoided highlighting this side of the city. Perhaps, in the end, it’s all a matter of taste. After all, the Neapolitan tradition of “arruscato” coffee has managed to conquer the entire nation. Certainly, the quality in many bars leaves much to be desired, but if Neapolitan citizens still want to enjoy a one-euro cup, some compromises are inevitable. Perhaps dedicating an entire feature to attacking Neapolitan pride was unnecessary: in Naples, more than savoring it, the point is to go out for coffee. For truly appreciating every nuance, there are the Scandinavian countries.