Understanding the rise of listening bars
The charm of vinyl and wine
November 29th, 2024
Directly from Japan, listening bars have started spreading to the West. These are intimate venues characterized by the presence of a high-end hi-fi system and a vast selection of vinyl records. In Japanese, they are called “jazz kissa” (meaning “jazz bar”), referring to the genre most commonly played in these spaces. However, beware: these are not places designed for dancing or attending a concert. Listening bars are especially loved and frequented by so-called audiophiles, people who place great importance on the listening experience of music. In these venues, you can enjoy vinyl records played through state-of-the-art speakers and turntables. Sometimes the selection reflects the venue’s preferences, while in other cases, records are chosen by specific DJs to create a particular atmosphere. Some of the most famous European listening bars include Ton in Bucharest and Bambino in Paris. The latter is a popular spot known for its curated vinyl selection and its impressive audio system. Recently, listening bars have also garnered interest in major U.S. cities, from New York to Los Angeles.
A few Italian venues have also tried to adopt a similar format: one of them is Section80 Bar in Milan, which, among other things, features a small record shop (curated in collaboration with the Berlin-based store and label Sound Metaphors) and an area where listening parties are held. Another notable example in Milan is Futura, which more closely embraces the characteristics and aesthetics of Japanese jazz kissa. Patrons of the venue—described as an «intimate space for moments of sonic connection»—often visit alone, especially during the day: you can order a drink, browse magazines, and relax to the refined musical selection. While Futura takes inspiration from the ambiance of Japanese jazz kissa, others have adopted only certain elements, such as the importance of the hi-fi system or the practice of showcasing their vinyl collection—sometimes dedicating one or more walls of the venue to it. This is the case with Mazzo, a historic Roman venue that reopened in 2024 in its 2.0 version, moving from Centocelle to the San Lorenzo neighborhood. Mazzo offers traditional Roman dishes with a contemporary twist, in the style of modern trattorias. Complementing this, it boasts a professional audio system and a wide selection of vinyl—«to ensure you don’t have to eat well while listening to questionable music,» wrote the magazine Zero. About a year ago, Mazzo also hosted the Roman web radio Rhizome weekly for a period—«vinyl listening selection, no DJ sets» read the announcement of the collaboration. Another Roman venue where the musical offering is an integral part of the dining experience is Ruvido. The same goes for Banco Vini in Turin, which defines itself as an «hi-fi listening bar», where once a week DJ Alessandro Gambo presents his own vinyl selection.
How Did Listening Bars Originate?
What are now known in the West as listening bars originated from Japanese jazz kissa, which began to spread in the country in the late 1920s. It was a time when jazz was still perceived as a novelty, but at the same time, it was becoming a very popular genre in Japan, thanks to the interest generated by the first tours of big bands from the United States and the Philippines (where this music had been introduced by occupying forces). Over time, jazz became a genre appreciated by an increasingly wide audience in Japan, and the country’s jazz scene established itself as one of the most dynamic and important of its time. In this context, jazz kissa played a fundamental role in the dissemination of music: obtaining vinyl records was quite expensive, and spending time in these venues was a way to discover jazz records without incurring the cost of purchasing them. Often, these venues were opened by people who had frequented the United States for various reasons and had amassed a substantial collection of imported vinyl records. Jazz kissa reached their peak popularity between the 1970s and 1980s, but they still enjoy a strong following in Japan today: the most famous ones have become must-visit spots for music enthusiasts visiting cities like Tokyo or Osaka.