The lone stars of Daniel Roseberry's FW25 for Schiaparelli

Initially trapped in corsets, then in stereotypes and diktats, women and their ways of dressing have been, since the dawn of time, defined, dominated, even controlled by men, their ideas, and their expectations. In a fashion industry where the primary target is women, but where the top masters and board members are mostly male, there are, however, creators like Daniel Roseberry, who wanted to set the record straight with his FW25 collection for Schiaparelli. In the same vein as some of his late haute couture colleagues, such as Cristobal Balenciaga or Azzedine Alaïa, Roseberry decided this time more than ever to honor women, their bodies, their desire to show it or not, and their will to feel good in what they wear. "I wanted to create a wardrobe that expresses the contradictions inherent in the lives of women: how to create something that, while reworking male archetypes, allows them to express the purest and most divine femininity?" he explains in a statement. And indeed, through a palette of warm and comforting colors, silhouettes that are all more feminine than the next yet strong at the same time, and constantly opposing textures, the Schiaparelli woman, through this FW25, is divine.

As the 43 looks of the collection are revealed before our eyes, two destructive and complementary forces impose themselves in an increasingly clear and evident way: masculinity fights against the undeniable femininity that can be found in each of the silhouettes, submission struggles against control, and rigor tries to take the upper hand over excess. But it is precisely this duality and these constant tensions that give the collection its character and personality, both expressed through materials and elements that are always contradictory. Harder pieces like classic cowboy boots are reinvented in a version with explicitly feminine finishes and shapes, and engraved leather is reinterpreted on accessories straight out of the wild west like belts, boots, and bags. What appears harsh, rough and severe is in fact soft, while the soft takes on a tough-as-nails character that we didn't know it had, but which suits it surprisingly well. This duality, however, is not the only feature that makes the collection playful and deceptive: Daniel Roseberry also had fun making his creations unique and innovative through trompe-l’oeil, discordant games, and proportions, always respecting Schiaparelli's heritage and its deeply surrealist character. For example, the feather motif has been enlarged and flocked onto double satin and printed onto spongy neoprene velvet. The Sluch-side handbag has been enlarged so that women can carry all the bric-a-brac they need, while the supple Soufflé bag has been given a punk makeover, covered in glittering gold studs. What appears to be a heavy jacquard pencil skirt is in fact made from a very light fabric, a flocked stretch bodysuit that looks constricting is actually as light as a dance leotard, and even the Maison's iconic jewellery, which looks heavy to the naked eye, is in fact lighter, still decorated with the brand's signature motifs such as eyes, noses and even hair. 

The fil rouge of the collection, beyond the trompe-l'œil, illusions, and innocent tricks, is the equestrian and cowboy world, in tribute to Roseberry's childhood under the scorching Texas sun. A tribute made through key pieces typical of ranches, such as the duster-coat, the curved-leg jeans, the Red Wing cowboy boot, and the iconic oversized buckle of the western belt (here decorated with the Maison's distinctive symbols: the lock and the lobster). But beyond this tribute to his roots and the fashion that saw him grow up, Daniel Roseberry also used this runway to transmit a powerful message of authenticity, uniqueness, and exclusivity. "In this post-social media era, where many of us are tired and disgusted by the idea of living through a screen, we ask ourselves what really gives meaning to life. Meaning comes from recognizing what is still precious in life: things and people that cannot be reproduced. Those that must be lived in person, in the real world." explains the designer. "In recent months, I've spoken less and listened more. I wanted to create something that would be a source of inspiration and could never be copied by fast fashion, he continues. Women in my life are lone stars - there are no others like them, and there never will be. I hope they, and all women, feel the same way about these clothes." A message that only makes us want to take out the most unique, extravagant, even shameful piece from our wardrobe and wear it with pride, embrace this idea of the solitary star, own it, and shine without restraint, without fear of blinding the other stars that have yet to reveal themselves.