Courrèges comes out of its cocoon in its FW25 collection

After the evolving cocoon of the SS25 collection, Courrèges, through its FW25, now emerges like a butterfly unafraid to spread its wings and show its colors. Once again, at the heart of the Carreau du Temple, Nicolas Di Felice presented his winter collection for the French Maison, continuing the vision he introduced last September for summer, but with a slightly more colorful touch. Against a pristine backdrop, Di Felice’s first super-heroines arrive, wearing mask-like sunglasses, ultra-modern dresses, and high heels. This immaculate setting, like the runway and its looks, quickly fills with shades of pink, red, and silver soaring through the air as the models glide over a pool of colorful confetti placed at the center of the venue. To the beat of Erwan Sene and Di Felice’s remix of Chantalau’s song "The Realm," the asymmetrical and geometric silhouettes—sometimes rectangular, sometimes more rounded—parade, flow, and captivate us in a whirlwind of black and vibrant hues.

While black, the undeniable symbol of Courrèges' timeless elegance, remains omnipresent, it evolves through various textures and gives way to a gradient from candy pink to tulip red to deep burgundy. The silhouettes transition from the brand’s signature Space Age mini dresses—responsible for Courrèges' international success—to thick trench coats evoking a mysterious detective look, emphasized by oversized sunglasses, not to mention the leather creations giving the models a hyper-feminine yet ultra-powerful Catwoman aura. Beyond leather and heavy fabrics, there are also shimmering silver dresses, sometimes paired with matching trousers, appearing to be crafted from both medieval-style chainmail and an ultra-modern fabric that hasn’t even been invented yet—a nod to the house’s pioneering textile innovations. The collection’s central theme is undoubtedly geometry, showcased through sharp-angled designs seemingly cut with surgical precision. Scarves integrated into dresses appear in various forms throughout the collection, serving both as a warm, comforting element and as a train that elevates the look to a level of refined elegance.

Between the futuristic sunglasses, equally avant-garde materials, revealing yet never vulgar cuts, and the Julia Fox-inspired makeup, Di Felice’s army of models makes us want just one thing: to slip into a Courrèges FW25 mini dress and take on the world—after stopping by a nightclub first to confirm we're the best-dressed in the room. Even the late-night/party-girl aesthetic, when reinterpreted by Courrèges, results in an explosive yet soothing blend of fresh, cool, effortlessly chic looks that feel both contemporary and ahead of their time. The confetti floating through the air with each model’s step, like fluttering butterflies, reinforces the theme of elevation and controlled explosion. The idea came to Di Felice while browsing an art book by Dan Colen: “I was looking at streamers in his work and thought, ‘okay, maybe I can build on that.’ So I took a rectangle, like a scarf, and simply wrapped it around the body,” he explained after the show. Each of the 45 looks is both realistic and avant-garde, wearable yet desirable—something we’d all dream of donning when winter blues hit, and bulky sweaters fail to inspire us. It will be difficult to finish winter wearing our current wardrobes, knowing pieces like those from Courrèges’ FW25 collection exist. Because deep down, even in the coldest months, who wouldn’t want to feel like a fearless, powerful heroine—while also being impeccably dressed?