Best of Milano Fashion Week FW25 Women’s

Milan is back, stronger than ever. The creative directors' turmoil hasn't dented the Italian Fashion Week in the slightest. In fact, it almost seems as if the chaos at the beginning of the year has fueled the unstoppable energy permeating the streets of the Lombard capital. From Fendi's grand centennial celebration to the debut of Chinese designer Susan Fang, this year's MFW calendar has never been so diverse and relevant, striking a perfect balance between historic Maisons and emerging designers. Debuts were not lacking either, such as David Koma for Blumarine, who managed to restore a clear creative direction to the brand after a couple of chaotic years. Among the biggest surprises were also the shows of emerging designers, like the visionary runway by Giuseppe di Morabito, which perfectly embraced the theme of the upcoming Design Week: connecting art with new forms of artificial intelligence. The innovations did not stop at the runways but continued with presentations and new openings, most notably the new flagship store of Miss Sixty, which houses the first permanent sculpture in Italy by Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama. However, the week did not start in the best way: the FW25 collection seemed somewhat lackluster during the Menswear shows in January, and the opening show was that of a Gucci recently left without a creative director. Despite this, Womenswear continued to deliver shows and presentations that left a mark on the Italian fashion scene. Here are some of the best shows of this MFW.

Dolce&Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana's show remains one of the most anticipated moments of the Milan calendar. After reinvigorating MFW with their menswear collection last January, expectations were high, but Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana not only met them but staged what many have called the best show of the season. Celebrating the archetype of the cool girl, the creative duo modernized the brand’s codes, speaking directly to the new generations. The little black dress was reinterpreted as the perfect party dress: daringly short, covered in rhinestones, feathers, and precious stones. The mantra of the first half of the FW25 collection was clear: "a little party never killed nobody." But when the show stepped outside the historic Metropol to continue on the streets, the cool girl transformed. Softer silhouettes, embracing furs, and lace details redefined the brand's sensuality, with styling that mixed masculine and feminine elements without ever losing seductive appeal. The focus is no longer on the individual garment but on the art of styling, with a fluid and spontaneous wardrobe where lingerie and slip dresses coexist with oversized blazers, cargo pants, denim, and leopard prints. It almost hurts to have to wait until June for another show.

Sunnei

Seeing an independent brand continue to thrive is always a triumph for the Italian fashion landscape. For the FW25 collection, Sunnei wanted to celebrate exactly that: a moment of transition in its history. After all, what is the foundation of the fashion system if not a transaction of goods? Staged in front of the new flagship store Palazzina Sunnei, the show featured models walking down the runway with the brand’s shopping bags as if they had just finished shopping—a metaphor made even clearer by the collection’s standout feature: the wearability of every look. Compared to past seasons, there were noticeably fewer patterns, but the color play for this FW25 was impeccable: from lime yellow to deep burgundy, the palette felt cohesive in all its variations. Fabric choices were also central, with oversized mohair knitwear and new wig-like headpieces reminiscent of vintage rag dolls. One thing is certain: the Sunnei formula never gets old.

DSQUARED2

Tuesday night, the first day of MFW, ended with nothing short of grand celebrations: DSQUARED2, Italy’s most irreverent brand, celebrated its 30th anniversary with a show destined to be remembered in fashion history. The opening performance by Doechii—one of today’s most explosive it-girls in the music scene—immediately transported guests into an electrifying atmosphere reminiscent of some of the brand’s most iconic moments. The FW25 collection stands as a true ode to DSQUARED2’s legacy, revamping archival pieces in a contemporary light. Dean and Dan took this occasion to be deliberately self-referential while also collaborating with brands that have looked up to their vision over the years, including Magliano, Vaquera, and Bettter. Among these, the partnership with Vaquera resulted in experimental creations such as the cropped I<3DSQUARED2 sweatshirt paired with a voluminous ballerina skirt. Menswear did not fall short either: oversized bombers, tailored shirts, leather suits created in collaboration with Ducati, and tie-dye denim inspired by their past work with Kiss. The inclusive, cross-generational casting also paid tribute to Julie Enfield, muse and mentor to the Caten twins, sealing three decades of unstoppable fashion vision.

Marni

Compared to the cities that precede it in the fashion calendar, Milan is often seen as the most classic, less inclined to experimentation. But if there is one name that manages to break this narrative, it is Marni. For FW25, Francesco Risso pushed his vision even further, working alongside artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend. The result? The Salon collection blurs the boundaries between fashion, art, and performance. Everything started with a chance encounter on a foggy night in London, culminating in The Pink Sun, an artistic residency where the trio worked together for a month. From this exchange comes a collection that celebrates craftsmanship and the transformative power of creativity. A wolf’s skin turns into a sculpted coat, flowers bloom from satin dresses, while tufts of fur cascade down structured skirts. Tailoring merges with animalistic details, and materials layer upon one another, creating a visual effect that is both surreal and sartorial. Against the backdrop of a Milanese café, with scribbled tables and drinks served nonchalantly, The Salon manifests as an ode to Marni’s heritage and its ability to reinvent itself. A collection that seems straight out of a fairy tale, where the past meets the future and fashion transforms into pure artistic expression. 

Bally

When Simone Bellotti was appointed creative director of Bally in 2023, his first collections did not generate much reaction. No missteps, but neither a true spark. That was until last Saturday when the Swiss brand presented its FW25 collection on the sixteenth floor of the Torre Velasca, an homage to its Swiss heritage. The collection explores the idea of routine: the order and repetition that structure our daily lives but eventually make us crave disruption, as stated by the brand. It is precisely between discipline and instinct that Bellotti moves, alternating sartorial precision with unexpected details. The womenswear introduced exaggerated cinched-waist silhouettes, with suits creating a 1950s hourglass effect, almost sculpturally emphasizing the hips. However, it was the belts that stole the show: tight, multiple, sometimes exaggerated, serving as both an element of constraint and a symbol of power. Stiff leather versions cinched blazers, while corset-belts with metal buckles adorned trench coats and leather dresses. In menswear, rigidity softened: leather became a disruptive element within tailored suits, while coats and jackets overlapped lightly. Between rigor and freedom, Bally’s FW25 collection marks Bellotti’s true affirmation, presenting a collection that does not merely honor the brand’s heritage but redefines it with a bolder and more contemporary vision.