Beyond "The Debutante", the interview with Louis Shengtao Chen

In today's world of reality TV reunions, like The Bachelor or Love Island, fans eagerly anticipate catching up with their favorite personalities to relive the season’s highlights. But, have you ever wondered if debutantes of yesteryear could have capitalized on this trend, too? Enter Louis Shengtao Chen—fashion’s very own debutante phenomenon. Making his grand entrance at the 2021 Shanghai Fashion Week with his collection aptly titled The Debutante, Chen took the stage by storm. His collection fused the elegance of traditional French tailoring and ball gown inspirations with modern, unconventional materials like sealing tapes, vintage ties, and mechanical components. It was a bold reimagination of what a debutante could be in the 21st century—strong, unapologetic, and wholly modern (aka the cultured baddie). Fast forward three years, and Chen has continued to redefine fashion, pushing boundaries with his innovative designs. For Spring/Summer 2025, he introduced his latest collection, Echos in the Fog, a poetic portrayal of a woman navigating the paradox of beauty and confinement. Chen’s designs reflect this duality: soft, fragile silhouettes juxtaposed with dramatic waistlines and bold, textured fabrics. The collection highlights his signature blend of naiveté and adulthood—lace peeks out from denim pencil skirts, organza gowns overlay argyle patterns, and floral-inspired hoods bring an air of fantasy.

You launched your brand in 2021 during the pandemic—a time when many fashion labels were struggling. What inspired you to take that leap, and how did it feel seeing your work on the runway?

The pandemic was a challenging time for everyone, including myself. Yet, I was fortunate to launch my brand during a moment when the fashion industry in Mainland China was highly supportive. With so few physical shows happening globally at that time, Shanghai was one of the first to return to the runway, and I found myself at the right place at the right time. It was a combination of great timing and the willingness of people around me to help and believe in my vision. Seeing my work on the runway for the first time was overwhelming. Having graduated without a physical show due to the pandemic, my 2021 debut was an entirely new experience. From the fittings to the unconventional, performance-like format, it was thrilling to see everything come together. The applause and recognition we received made all the challenges worth it.

Most people might not know that you have also done modeling. Did that experience shape your approach to design?

Yes, my time as a model did influence my journey into fashion design, but it was more of a hobby and life experience than a full-time job. While studying fashion intensely for my diploma, modeling became a natural fit—a way to earn some money while immersing myself further into the industry. I was captivated by the creative process—especially by the ateliers and the talented people I met. I vividly remember meeting Alessandro Michele for the first time; his poetic and romantic presence left a lasting impression on me. The experience of working with such visionary creatives inspired me, and as a model, I always felt empowered by what I wore. That confidence, along with my exposure to the industry’s inner workings deeply motivated me to create my own brand.

What does glamour mean to you in today’s fashion world?

To me, glamour is about truly understanding who you are and embracing your comfort zone. While fashion often defines glamour with elegance, extravagance, or sophistication, I believe it’s more about self-confidence. It’s the ability to stay consistent with your aesthetic and to stand firm in what you think, even if others don’t see it the same way. For my brand, I hope we can do the same—remain true to our vision and not be swayed by others. After all, real glamour is timeless and rooted in staying true to who you are.

Your designs often explore the contrast between rawness and elegance. How would you describe your design philosophy?

I often think of my design philosophy as the balance of hardness and softness—like water, strong yet fluid. As a designer, I carry both masculine and fragile qualities, blending emotion and strength in my work. I am very emotional, and that complexity is reflected in my designs. When I create for women, it's like holding up a mirror, a reflection of how I see myself and a fantasy of what a modern woman could be. It’s not about dictating how they should dress; I love it when they mix my pieces with casual or sporty brands. It’s their choice, their style. What inspires me most is hearing how my designs make women feel—how they put on my clothes and start thinking about their makeup, their shoes, and their entire look. It's that small transformation, that influences how they present themselves, that keeps me passionate about creating.

You recently collaborated with Ultrasuede. How do innovation and sustainability factor into your brand, and what do you look for in collaborators?

When selecting collaborators, I look for partners who share a deep respect for craftsmanship and sustainability. With Ultrasuede, for example, I admire their dedication to environmentally-conscious innovation and the way they approach materials with care and precision. Their versatility is inspiring—the fabric can be used across multiple industries, from fashion to car interiors and home décor, which shows its immense potential. As for partnerships, we need to understand our strengths and find a natural synergy. While we have a strong feminine identity, we don't limit ourselves to just collaborating with women’s brands. What excites me is bringing our unique DNA into unexpected spaces, blending our vision with something completely different, and still making it resonate. That’s a true achievement for me in any collaboration.

Balancing couture-like craftsmanship with ready-to-wear fashion is no easy task. How do you manage that?

The balance between high fashion and everyday accessibility remains an evolving concept. At its core, fashion is about clothing— where we begin and ultimately end up. Every piece we create carries our experience, reflecting the unique atmosphere we aim to convey. We explore various presentation styles and show formats, yet the heart of our work lies in the effort invested in each garment. It’s about the care we put into every detail—tailoring, finishing, and the selection of fabrics. While it may sound simple, the essence of high fashion and ready-to-wear is ultimately the same: clothing is what matters most to me. As designers and creative directors, we must embody a strong belief in what we create. We lose our purpose if we can’t deliver a meaningful vision through our garments. Our designs should serve as our guiding principle, like a holy text that inspires and drives our creative journey.

Can you share a bit about your creative process? How do you bring your ideas to life?

It's really about millions of endless fittings. We fit, style, and fit again, and no matter how many shows we prepare for, the fitting process is truly magnificent. Each time, the clothing takes on a new life with every woman who wears it. The pieces don’t need extra styling—they naturally adapt to each individual, speaking for themselves. I love that about fittings. Beyond that, I sketch a lot. Every day, I draw each piece, from clothing to shoes, accessories, and bags. Sketching brings the designs to life, translating them from two-dimensional ideas into three-dimensional realities. It’s a very tangible and vivid transformation. Of course, I care deeply about how our collections are presented—who wears the pieces, how they move, and how the shows bring the clothes to life. It all starts with an image in my mind, and from there, it evolves through sketches and fittings into something real.

Who is the Louis Shengtao Chen-universe woman?

The typical client within the Louis Shengtao Chen universe is not easily defined by a single name or image. They are here, present in the essence of our designs. Once, I might have referenced icons like Ni Ni or Faye Wong, but now I see our clients standing before us, embodying resilience and belief in themselves. These women are sophisticated yet fluid, navigating life with emotional depth and passion for fashion. They embrace their interests and hobbies with energy and enthusiasm, reflecting a vibrant spirit. Our brand is not bland or cold; it is infused with emotion, resonating with those who, like me, appreciate the beauty in both clothing and life itself.

You’ve been shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, recently won the Vogue China Fashion Fund 2024, and recognized by Fashion Asia amongst other accolades. How does it feel to be regarded as a rising star in the industry?

In truth, it's not just the time after getting recognized with awards, every day in this industry is hard work. The challenges are constant, and we push ourselves to work even harder. As I grow, I realize the importance of precision—whether in design, vision, or the language we use to express it.

What’s next for Louis Shengtao Chen? Any upcoming projects we should know about?

What's next for me is a very personal and reflective project, one I’ve been working on quietly for some time. It feels like a return to my roots—self-exploratory and self-analytical, something many designers experience, but I haven't truly embraced in three or four years. This journey has been deeply tied to my student days, bringing back that sense of wonder and excitement I once had about the future, about waking up each day inspired by what I might create next. I wouldn’t call it the best or most proud project I’ve ever done, but it’s a beautiful feeling—a kind of self-meditation, preparing myself for what’s to come. It’s been a grounding experience, like placing crystal heels beside my bed—a small, personal ritual that reflects this moment of clarity and calm.