Jacquemus in the sights of an Italian investment funds

After over a decade-long career, countless runway shows in the French countryside, entire collections built around materials like linen reminiscent of fresh sheets on a bed in a Provencal home, and pieces that evoke the gentle sun of the South, there is no doubt that Jacquemus is a quintessentially French brand. However, its creator, Simon Porte Jacquemus, while maintaining the aesthetic and thematic consistency that evokes the sound of southern crickets just by looking at his designs, seems ready to broaden his horizons or at least temporarily set aside his beloved France. Recently, he has ventured abroad, appealing to an international audience already captivated by the brand’s signature “oui oui baguette” DNA, by opening not one but two stores outside of Europe within weeks—the first in New York and the second in London. Yet, the winds of change sweeping through our favorite southern designer extend beyond these two foreign ventures: Jacquemus, who until now has firmly and independently held the reins of his eponymous brand, has confirmed that he is seeking a minority investor. And he may have found one in an unexpected place: Style Capital, an Italian asset management firm with its sights set on the made-in-France brand.

While it remains unclear where the French designer stands regarding a potential Italian investment, the Milan-based firm has confirmed its interest in a minority stake in Jacquemus. “It requires synergies, quality, and the combination with Jacquemus is one I’d love. He himself stated that he is looking for a minority investor. This is a brand we greatly admire, and its characteristics align with our objectives,” explained Roberta Benaglia, CEO and founding partner of Style Capital, to Milano Finanza. But if Jacquemus is deeply French and proud of it, would an investment from an Italian firm make sense? Would it signify a detachment from his beloved France? Jacquemus has, however, never hidden his love for Italy, notably by choosing Capri, specifically the Casa Malaparte, the backdrop of Jean-Luc Godard’s film Le Mépris, as the setting for his SS24 Les Sculptures collection presentation, or by opening various pop-up shops there, from the colorful streets of Lake Como and Portofino to Capri’s pristine beaches.

While we await further developments, one thing is certain: whether the minority investment comes from France, Italy, or the Netherlands, the young designer seems intent on pulling out all the stops to turn Jacquemus into a fashion colossus. And while rumors about Simon Porte Jacquemus potentially taking the helm as Chanel’s artistic director recently circulated, the designer quickly denied them, explaining he simply doesn’t have the time. Could his time be entirely consumed by total dedication to his brand? Who knows, but he did tell Le Figaro: “I value my independence, but I need to break the glass ceiling by finding the right partner.” If a young designer from a small Provence village managed to build a €200 million revenue empire through sheer determination, he undoubtedly knows how to choose an investor worthy of his vision.