It's a red burgundy fall

The article you're about to read isn’t here to tell you how burgundy red is a timeless color or how its popularity has endured over time—just walk down the streets of any major city. It's a shade loved by many not because it suits everything and everyone (according to the theory of color harmony, burgundy and petrol green are some of the few colors that work on all skin tones), but because it holds qualities, like black, that are hard to resist. Named after one of France’s top wine-producing regions, the color entered fashion during the Roaring Twenties, in the form of dyes and lipstick for the wealthy in big cities. Shortly before, it had been chosen by Harvard as the college’s signature color—although in this case, it’s a slightly brighter red known as crimson. Thus, as it made its way into the wardrobes of the wealthy, burgundy established itself a century ago as a symbol of power, seduction, and elegance. Qualities that, as shown by the recent spike in searches for “burgundy” (the highest in the last twenty years, up by +365% since last fall), fashion brands and consumers continue to seek out on store racks and online shopping platforms. From Paris to New York, burgundy red was a standout at the latest Fashion Weeks, especially for maisons and brands that have made leather goods their forte, from Bottega Veneta to Gucci.

Though widely recognized as one of the quintessential autumn colors due to its similarity to fallen leaves, pumpkin spice lattes, and mulled wine, this year burgundy was also chosen by brands for SS25. Leading the way were Bottega Veneta and Chloé: the former applied it, of course, to the brand’s signature woven leather, but also to outerwear, with oversized trench coats and blazers. The latter, staying within the leather goods realm, chose to dye bomber jackets, utility vests, and shoulder bags in autumn tones—and even introduced a swimsuit in the same shade. Following closely were brands that have mastered the art of color, such as Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, and Prada. All three used burgundy as a base for unique color pairings: Dries Van Noten's design team opted for earth tones like olive green and aqua green; Lucie and Luke Meier created monochromatic outfits styled with yellow python boots; while Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons layered burgundy cardigans over canary yellow polo shirts for men. At Dolce&Gabbana, Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and Zegna, meanwhile, autumnal red took on a more serious tone for SS25, with total leather looks and light cotton ensembles, hinting at a transformation from a cool-weather hue to one that works even on hot summer nights.

Seeing it on the SS25 runway brings a welcome freshness, but in FW24 burgundy has an even stronger presence that, in some cases, manages to avoid falling into the predictable. Bottega Veneta and Chloé reprise it in leather goods, in warmer tones, but also on printed shirts and ruffled dresses. With a more rebellious edge, it appears on the runway for Ann Demeulemeester and Enfants Riches Déprimés, the former in the form of a leather jacket with white fur accents and sumptuous satin skirts, and the latter in the form of a studded belt and total leather looks (also admired by Future). Naturally, burgundy is also present at Gucci, although here it’s called “Rosso Ancora,” featured in every element of the FW24 collection, from accessories to boots, from shirts to mini dresses. Finally, special mention goes to British designer Molly Goddard, who has managed to make this typically atypical color her own. Pairing it with cotton candy pink in a voluminous look that evokes the sweetness of a strawberry cake, Goddard has proven that burgundy doesn’t always need to be taken too seriously. In short, this year’s color is a bit like the red wine it’s named after: it goes well with everything, but it must be paired with the right menu.