Europe is trying to stop Shein, Temu and Aliexpress

The European Union has proposed new laws that would impose heavier customs duties on low-cost imports, an initiative that, if carried out, would permanently jeopardize the future of fast fashion giants like Temu, Aliexpress, and Shein, which is about to debut on the London Stock Exchange. Meanwhile, according to the Financial Times, Europe will eliminate the 150-euro duty-free threshold, the United Kingdom has no intention of imposing limits on fast fashion, on the contrary: in addition to supporting its stock market entry, last month the leader of the Labour Party, Keir Starmer, met with Shein's executives and confirmed that he will help them start their business in the UK. The Financial Times published a report showing that only last year 2.3 billion duty-free items were imported into Europe, an alarming figure not only in terms of waste but also for independent local businesses struggling to establish themselves in their own country. The new European online trade proposal must first be accepted by the Parliament, which will meet again this month, but in the meantime, Ursula von der Leyen, who was recently re-elected President of the European Commission, has expressed support for the proposed laws. «We will tackle the challenges with e-commerce platforms to ensure that consumers and businesses benefit from a level playing field based on effective customs, tax, safety, and sustainability standards,» stated the President just before the votes that confirmed her position.

With low shipping costs, convenient for both companies and customers, Shein, Temu, and Aliexpress have found a perfect mechanism for success, which, however, raises ethical and environmental issues related to pollution (the 2.3 billion items imported into the EU last year were transported by air) and forced or underpaid labor. Although the future of the new customs duties is now in the hands of Parliament, and despite London welcoming Shein with open arms, the EU's attempt to thwart companies responsible for countless environmental damages represents a countertrend that brings relief to all independent shopkeepers and all those who oppose the dominance of fast fashion. Alongside the economic issue (which seems to be the main reason the British Labour government is protecting Shein), another factor complicating the matter seems to be inflation affecting all European countries, which fuels consumer demand for low-cost products. Shein's executive, Donald Tang, has expressed support for the proposed reform. «We want fair competition worldwide,» said Tang, adding that tax breaks on Chinese imports «are not essential for our success». But the final word will rest with Shein's customers who, at the end of their shopping, will find themselves facing unexpectedly higher shipping costs than before.