What we have to expect from Milan Fashion Week
The last Karl's show, Moncler Genius by Matthew Williams and Richard Quinn, Prada, Gucci and Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta
February 19th, 2019
This evening begins the Milan Fashion Week, with the United Colors of Benetton event, the Milan Fashion Week will start, presenting the women's FW19 collections, designed by Iceberg co-founder Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. It is reasonable to ask ourselves what we have to expect from a week full of shows and parties, and we can give some answers by looking at the program. Like a geographical map, the calendar can explain many things about the attitude of the brands and the strategies of fashion in 2019. It is impossible not to notice that more than the shows, the parties prevail, a litmus test of a precise commercial strategy and of publicizing the collections. An explanation of how to spend millions of euros for 10 minutes of show maybe it is not convenient or the best effective way to involves the audience, and not able to bring products among people.
The most awaited shows are those of the great Italian fashion houses, Giorgio Armani, which will also present the Emporio Armani collection; Gucci, brought back to Milan by Alessandro Michele after the Paris trilogy; Versace, at the second chapter of the new American property; Prada and of course Fendi, for the last real goodbye to Karl Lagerfeld, in the Maison where he had been collaborating for 55 years.
Among the most anticipated shows there is also the first of Daniel Lee at the helm of Bottega Veneta, after the 7 years in Céline, the task is not to regret Tomas Maier, for 17 years Artistic Director of the Italian brand.
Tomorrow's day will end with the Moncler show, in the incredible restored space of the Magazzini Raccordati, in the underground tunnels at the Central Station, in which the capsule designed by Matthew Williams of ALYX and Richard Quinn will show off. Two new chapters of Moncler Genius.
If you had in your hands a Fashion Week calendar of 10 years ago, you would notice that nothing has changed, and you can not be content to believe it is a positive aspect, basking in the fact that Made in Italy is safe. Made in Italy is a lie that is no longer enough and does not justify a slow pace that differentiates Milan from Paris, London and New York. The other names present at the event are likely to resemble a selection of fallen nobles, dusted off only during these weeks.
We are also expecting a lot from the shows of emerging brands, promoted in large part by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, which will have to be able to dialogue with the city as it has rarely happened in past editions. Milan's fashion is called to be inclusive, not an inaccessible Rotary club, even more so given the general tendency of brands to greater democratization of high fashion. A strategy that has helped because it has turned to a wider and receptive public, so isolation cannot be the choice of Milan.
The example to follow, as well as in other fashion shows, especially Paris, is to be found much closer than you can imagine, in the Milan Design Week. The Salone del Mobile in Milan is a complete example of how they have managed to exploit the potential of a city in evident economic and cultural health. Public and private institutions in Milan are working well, entrepreneurs and brands are investing in the city, last in order of time Supreme, which has perhaps announced the opening of a new store in the city.
The locations are not lacking, from the highly anticipated of Moncler, which will be open to the public for the first time on Sunday 24th, Piazza Duomo, Quadrilatero, Piccolo Teatro and Palazzo del Ghiaccio.
We want to see a lively fashion, that speaks with the city, that dances with the city, not just at the parties.