Is Marseille becoming France’s new cultural capital?

There’s been a noticeable shift of creatives relocating from Paris (and many other cities) to Marseille. And it has been happening way before Chanel staged its Cruise 2025 show at Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse and TimeOut named Notre-Dame-du-Mont the coolest neighborhood in the world for 2024. In fact, this movement has been building for over a decade, reaching its peak during the pandemic as many Parisians moved to the city, attracted by the lower cost of living, more affordable real estate, year-round pleasant weather, and a more relaxed lifestyle. As the Financial Times puts it, these factors are outweighing its “gritty reputation.” With a growing cultural scene, home to shopping hotspots like Jogging by Olivier Amsellem, festivals like Actoral, an emerging art scene, and an upcoming Slow Fashion Week, is France’s oldest city truly experiencing a cultural and creative renaissance? We ask people who’ve made the move to Marseille, and those just about to: what’s it like living in Marseille vs Paris. 

“There’s an energy here that feels fresh, raw, and full of possibilities—you have to experience it to truly understand it,” says Parysatis Peymani, co-founder of Harmony Homes and owner of the chic two-bedroom Marseille rental Maison Abi. After graduating from NOEMA and IFM, Paris was the natural choice for Peymani. It’s the heart of fashion, business, and culture in France, after all, but she admits that while it’s incredibly inspiring, it can also be intensely overwhelming. She says, “It’s a city that pushes you to dream big,” and dream big she did, a drive that eventually took her to Dubai for four years. “I loved the energy [of Dubai], the access to art, design, and architecture, and the incredible people I met. But after some time, I found myself craving France again.” This time, however, she didn’t return to Paris. Instead, she chose Marseille. “Paris was incredible, but at some point, I felt disconnected from nature, especially the lack of sunlight, and from the sense of ease I was looking for. I remember standing on the Marseille corniche at sunset, feeling the warmth, hearing the sea and the seagulls, and realizing: this is what I want more of.” A few years in, is there anything she misses about Paris aside from the adrenaline of daily life and the beauty of a Parisian walk? “Some level of predictability!” she laughs, adding, “Marseille is wilder!”

After living in Paris for 11 years, Charlie Rocher-Beziat decided to leave his director role in PR, with no real objective other than taking time to reflect on his professional goals. That was more than a year ago and, today, he still finds himself in the same vibrant Marseille neighborhood he decided to call his temporary home during his sabbatical. Marseille reminded him of every city he loved, such as Brussels, Berlin, and London—particularly the latter’s Dalston neighborhood, where he lived. “The mix of cultures, the sounds and smells of the city, the vibrant nightlife, and the ever-evolving creativity reminded me of my three years in London, with a certain carefree spirit and a distinct pleasure in letting go.” Soon enough, he would establish Basso_Combo along with fellow Marseille transplants. Initially conceived as an excuse to bring people together through parties, it has now evolved into broader formats centered around music and food. “I attribute the factors behind this personal and collective achievement to several things: the easygoing way of life, the almost daily sunshine that sets the stage for a good time, the horizon of the sea that immediately inspires a feeling of freedom, a new generation of Marseillais who are politically aware and united around humanist, anti-capitalist, pro-community values, and a collective desire to come together and enjoy nature.” While he does feel that there is no energy quite like that of Parisian dining rooms, terraces, and bistros, Rocher-Beziat believes Marseille is an incredible playground for his newfound and inevitable career as a chef. “Its Mediterranean culture and heritage-rich ingredients have allowed me to explore my love for cooking with new dimensions of flavor,” he says.

While Marseille may not be for everyone, some have come to appreciate even its differences to Paris—like having only two metro lines and its seaside-town rhythm, marked by strong seasonality, with many places closing in the winter. “Marseille wasn’t the most obvious choice,” Axel, a curator and art critic, tells nss. “Compared to Paris, it seemed like a nice antidote,” he says, yet acknowledges that the city isn’t a typical stronghold for his job market. “Marseille is almost by definition synonymous with counter-culture, so members of artist communities often gather in self-managed spaces and small associative structures.” This makes it challenging for galleries, though he feels this is changing with places like Sissi Club. He adds that even though there are workshops and schools, Marseille still has fewer large breeding grounds or artist studios than Paris, which is home to Poush, La Tour Orion, and the Cité Internationale des Arts—places that bring together excellent artists in the same space. However, he points out that this lack is quickly offset by the time it gives him to think and create. “The light is extraordinary. I have the privilege of living by the sea—something I had never experienced before. And while I haven’t yet spent a summer here, I have already seen some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets of my life.” He confirms, “For now, I'm staying in Marseille.”

We’ve heard from those who have already made the move, but what about those who are just about to? Eddie Laruffa, who works in a French showroom in Paris, is preparing for his upcoming move to the south this summer. Originally from Montpellier, the decision might seem like an easy one, but he admits he’s unsure how it will play out for his career eventually, though he remains optimistic. “Paris is huge in terms of opportunities, creativity, and collaboration, but at the same time, it has become way too fast for me,” notes Laruffa, who moved to Paris in 2014. As a single father of one, he felt he needed to slow down and have more time for himself, and then some: “I need more sun and blue skies. The weather in Paris, especially in winter, really affects my mood.” Similar to Rocher-Beziat and Axel, he felt trapped by the Parisian routine of sleep, work, and commuting for long hours. He adds, “I just didn’t have enough time to breathe and rest.” So for this new chapter, both for himself and his son, he’s looking forward to a better quality of life filled with “more sun, more space, more time to live spontaneously.”

For those considering a move to Marseille, our subjects offer some advice. Axel takes a methodical approach with a spreadsheet: “We had this little Excel spreadsheet and assigned stars to cities based on whether we could find a job, the number of friends and points of reference we had there, and the number of sunny days per year.” Marseille won out because of the light, which Paris is short of. He recalls, “The endless gray of Paris that stretches from the sidewalk to the sky, from the bodywork of cars to the facades of apartments, from the cramped 23m² on the first floor where we were stuck after finishing our master's degree, to the sad faces and hunched shoulders of commuters crossing the City of Light at rush hour on the metro.” Meanwhile, Peymani suggests giving it time. “Marseille doesn’t reveal itself in a weekend. I recommend starting with a mid-term Airbnb to see how you feel in the city. Find a neighborhood that fits your lifestyle—that’s the most important thing. Le David, Endoume, and Malmousque are great for charm and sea views, but they’re packed with tourists in the summer, while Cours Julien and La Plaine are more vibrant and creative,” she shares, adding the key takeaway: “Be open, because Marseille is full of contrasts, but that’s what makes it so special.”