The significant decline in the quality of airline food

The focus on the quality of food offered by airlines has been brought back into the spotlight following a news event: a flight of the U.S. airline Delta Air Lines was forced to make an emergency landing due to the presence of mold in the meals served on board. Following the advice of the airline's health consultants, the captain decided to promptly interrupt the journey, concerned about the risk of food poisoning or health issues that some passengers might have suffered from. The incident did not have serious consequences, also because food poisoning on airplanes is very rare, but it still sparked curiosity about the process by which the meals served on flights are prepared. However, in general, the risks remain limited precisely because of the level of industrialization that now characterizes the process of preparing meals for airplanes, which often makes them quite bland. Not everyone is aware that major airlines have well-equipped kitchens designed for experimentation and the development of new recipes, which have all the requirements to prepare high-quality dishes. Despite this, the production of the tens of thousands of meals needed daily for flights is entrusted to external catering companies. The meals destined for passengers are prepared on the ground, frozen or kept at low temperatures, and delivered to the airport, where they are then loaded onto planes. After takeoff, the crew heats the meals in sealed trays, just as they received them, and serves them along with cold food items. But is this the only reason for the decline in meal quality?

Anyone who has recently traveled by plane will have noticed how the meals served by airlines appear unappetizing, sometimes even tasteless. The dishes on board, whether they include meat, fish, or vegetarian options, almost never turn into a memorable meal for passengers, especially when compared to those served years ago. The blame is partly attributed to humidity, which is much lower at high altitude—only 20%—compared to what is usually recorded on the ground. This atmospheric environment tends to dry out the nasal and oral mucous membranes, affecting travelers' taste and smell. For this reason, meals are perceived by passengers' senses as less flavorful than normal. To counteract this problem, the companies responsible for designing recipes and planning airline meals often increase the amounts of salt and sugar in dishes to make the flavors less bland. Additionally, for the same reason, meals based on curry are often served: using spices is a way to make in-flight food tastier. However, passengers' altered sensory perception also influences beverage choices on airplanes, not just food. It is no coincidence that orange or apple juices are the most popular choices: their high acidity is still noticeable even when other flavors are not. Given these preferences, it is also not surprising that coffee is highly requested due to its strong aroma.

However, the decline in food quality on airplanes cannot simply be attributed to atmospheric factors but rather to commercial reasons. Consider that from the late 1930s to the late 1970s, various airlines offered relatively refined meals to passengers, prepared in small kitchens installed on board. The food—partly prepared on the ground and heated in flight, partly cooked directly by the crew—was generally highly appreciated. At the time, entertainment options on airplanes were limited, and the main form of entertainment for passengers was eating. In some countries where ticket prices were regulated by the government, such as the United States, food was also the main marketing tool to attract customers. The paradigm shift occurred with the expansion of air travel, which made it necessary to rethink much of the commercial strategies adopted by airlines, and the focus on in-flight meals declined significantly. Ticket prices became the central factor, at the expense of services offered. Today, the growing number of people interested in flying is often willing to forgo meals in order to save on ticket costs. As a result, food is now offered mainly on intercontinental or long-haul flights, while on shorter routes, it is little more than an optional purchase available on board.