When it comes to the galette des rois, the French have the crown
When handling frangipane becomes a discipline in its own right
January 7th, 2025
Whether enjoyed in its classic, fruity, round, or square version, the galette des rois is a tradition cherished at French tables since time immemorial. Though it actually originates from a pagan tradition, enjoyed by the Romans during the celebration of the winter solstice, where it was presented as a round and golden sun-like pastry, the galette des rois has come a long way since then. Today, it exists in all shapes and colors, ranging from pizza-like caricatures to precise shapes and designs that dangerously flirt with the laws of baking, turning into a photographic object and a marketing product rather than a simple cake to enjoy with family on Sunday by the fire. Every Epiphany, bakers push their creativity further: the more original the galette, the higher it can be priced, and the more it sparks customer curiosity. However, beware of those who go too far in their reinvention and make it lose its fundamentals.
While tradition dictates that the galette des rois should be eaten on January 6th, it already starts appearing in late November and remains available until at least the end of January. In addition to extending the tradition's dates, the French do not hesitate to enjoy it multiple times: 64% of the population no longer limits themselves to a single chance at finding the lucky charm. In total, around 60 million units were consumed between December and January. This has piqued the interest of brands typically far removed from the world of pastry, such as Louis Vuitton, which once again offered a luxury galette this year, crafted by chef Maxime Frédéric, featuring monogrammed Viennese puff pastry, melting chocolate ganache, and a porcelain Vivienne charm. However, bakeries and even restaurants remain unfazed.
The Italian restaurant La Felicità, located in Paris's 13th arrondissement, offered a trompe-l’oeil galette this year, shaped like a pizza, blending French tradition with the heritage of the restaurant's country of origin. Nina Metayer, on the other hand, created an architectural galette with details reminiscent of the stone walls of a Gothic church, while Le Bristol presented a galette decorated with honeycomb patterns, and Yann Couvreur, rather than incorporating his signature fox design, crafted a galette shaped like a hazelnut. Cédric Grolet, known for his ever more extravagant trompe-l’oeil creations, decided to return to basics this year, offering classic galettes filled with almond frangipane cream. With 92% of French households following this tradition, and with so many variations, flavors, shapes, and colors, there's no shortage of options. Let’s hope they all taste as good as they look.