Explaining the popularity of the artisanal panettone

Up until about ten years ago, the panettone was a dessert mainly produced on an industrial scale. Recently, however, the popularity of artisanal panettones has significantly increased, thanks to the efforts of well-known chefs from television such as Carlo Cracco and Antonino Cannavacciuolo. During the holiday season, these chefs began selling their artisanal panettones by outsourcing production but “branding” the product. On one hand, by purchasing their desserts, consumers gain access to products of higher quality than those found in mass distribution. On the other, chefs have a new way to monetize the holiday season and reach a broader clientele, often uninterested in fine dining. Similarly, numerous fashion and design brands have recently started creating their own panettones in collaboration with renowned pastry shops: Moschino collaborates with Martesana of Milan; Armani with Guido Gobino of Turin; Roberto Cavalli with Pasticceria Olivieri 1882; Dolce&Gabbana with the Sicilian brand Fiasconaro, while Maurizio Cattelan, for the first panettone by ToiletPaper, chose La Primula pastry shop in Treviglio. Lastly, Fornasetti opted for Davide Longoni, one of Milan's most famous bakers.

This phenomenon has helped to restore dignity to the panettone, turning it back into a prized dessert and almost transforming it into a cult specialty. Until not long ago, artisanal panettones were consumed almost exclusively in Milan, where they were purchased in pastry shops. In the rest of Italy, the cheaper industrial version continued to dominate. With the proliferation of artisanal production, the quality standards of panettone have reached ever higher levels, leading in recent years to the flourishing of events, competitions, publications, and even rankings entirely dedicated to the quintessential Christmas dessert. «The skill of a pastry chef or a chef today often also depends on their ability to make an excellent panettone,» explains Post. In this sense, artisanal panettone has evolved from being a typically Lombard (if not Milanese) dessert to becoming a product appreciated and sought after throughout Italy. Moreover, the success of panettone has not been limited to the national market but has extended to the United States, Japan, and numerous European countries, where the dessert has become increasingly popular, following a trajectory similar to that of pizza. Today, exports of Made-in-Italy panettones are worth hundreds of millions of euros, and demand has extended beyond the Christmas period.

The History of Panettone

The tradition of panettone has ancient origins and is inextricably linked to the city of Milan. The custom of eating a sort of “Christmas bread” has existed for centuries in the Lombard capital, although its typical shape is more recent. The traditional Milanese panettone was low and made with a simple dough, characterized by few eggs. By the late 19th century, panettone was likely known and appreciated in much of central and northern Italy, thanks to the continuous trade exchanges between Milan and other cities. When, in the 1930s, Milanese pastry shops industrialized panettone production, they found a national market already somewhat familiar with the product. Industrialization made panettone a dessert for everyone, though it ended up flattening its flavor, partly due to the use of base preparations instead of fresh ingredients. Today, the most popular version is a soft, buttery, and especially tall panettone—«shaped like the Duomo», as famously described by Angelo Motta, the pastry chef of the eponymous confectionery company.

In recent years, artisanal panettone has evolved further: many pastry shops have abandoned raisins and candied fruits, typical ingredients of the dessert, in favor of more sophisticated and original fillings (ToiletPaper's artisanal panettone includes apples and salted caramel), while the basic dough continues to rely on a few codified ingredients. Its preparation is anything but simple and requires a long and complex process over several days: it involves at least two doughs, sometimes three, and demands meticulous management of the sourdough starter—highly sensitive to external variables such as temperature and humidity. Additionally, it requires ample workspace and considerable physical strength. The preparation of an artisanal panettone begins with the starter dough, worked multiple times with water and flour and allowed to expand between stages. To this, butter, eggs, sugar, and honey are typically added, along with fillings like candied fruits and raisins, to create a dough that is then divided into precise portions. After a short rest, each portion is rounded (a technique known as “pirlatura”) to form the typical panettone shape. This is followed by a long rising process, the characteristic cross cut, and baking, which for a one-kilogram panettone typically lasts just over 50 minutes. Finally, the dessert is cooled upside down for about half a day to ensure a uniform internal structure.