Deutsche Bahn (strangely) reinvents French cuisine

Deutsche Bahn ventures into culinary territory, and let’s be honest, it’s a bit perplexing. You board a train expecting a little gastronomic pleasure in the style of French “haute cuisine”, and instead, surprise: rather than savoring a grand cru to accompany your coq au vin, you find yourself holding a bottle of Orangina. Yes, you read that right. Fizzy soda to pair with a dish meant to represent France and its culinary heritage. The idea seems like a chef’s nightmare, but it's the reality of the “So schmeckt Europa” program launched by the German railway company. While the intention to celebrate French cuisine is commendable, the outcome leaves much to be desired.

The concept, which translates to “Taste of Europe” in English, aims to be an homage to the various culinary traditions of the continent, with a different country featured every two months. For September and October, the spotlight is on France. On paper, it sounds dreamy: a train journey filled with gastronomic discoveries in a convivial atmosphere. But the reality in the dining cars hasn't quite lived up to the expectations. The famed “coq au vin”, an iconic staple of French cuisine, has been transformed by some rather questionable choices: a dipping sauce with garlic bread, accompanied by a fizzy drink that, let's face it, doesn't quite belong on a French table.

But the real surprise is the croissant. This iconic French pastry, a symbol of French craftsmanship, is served here in a savory version, filled with gouda, tomatoes, and sometimes even salami. A cultural shock for those who associate this flaky treat with the tradition of Parisian breakfast. While savory croissants have started to make their way in France in recent years, they remain more of a curiosity than the norm. In Germany, however, it seems to have found its place, halfway between a classic sandwich and a reimagined pastry.

And this is where it gets tricky: in trying to fuse these two worlds, Deutsche Bahn seems to have lost sight of what makes French cuisine so special. But beyond these surprising choices, these culinary reinterpretations mostly reveal a German fascination with foreign gastronomy, even if the result sometimes lacks finesse. While the program has its critics, it also reflects a desire to pay tribute to the diversity of European tastes, with some awkwardness, but also a real intention of openness.