The show soundtracks at Milan Fashion Week keep hitting the spot

Nowadays, Fashion Week runway shows can no longer be considered mere presentations; they have become full-fledged spectacles. Luxury brands are increasingly focusing on the theatricality of their shows, mindful that the right soundtrack has the power to infuse a room with all the emotional charge needed to convey a message. Nostalgia and techno reigned supreme at the Milan Fashion Week, with notes that transport us to another era and others that keep us in rhythm with head-bopping beats. Following the success of their recent collections, Gucci has once again collaborated with producer Mark Ronson for a mix that combined the bass of Coronacid by Did Virgo with the drama of I’m not in love by Kelsey Lu (originally by 10cc, dating back to 1975) and the sweetness of Two Men in Love by The Irrepressibles.

From Prada, just as the FW24 collection brought past themes into the spotlight, the soundtrack proposed for the show blended distant harmonies with piercing highs. Some of the most famous pieces by Bernard Parmegiani, a pioneer of electroacoustic music born almost exactly a century ago, were overlaid with the warm vocals of Nico on Chet Baker's track, My Funny Valentine. Completing this soundtrack, Nights in White Satin by The Moody Blues closed the final runway with particular emphasis. Meanwhile, Marco Rambaldi, an emerging Italian designer, chose to end the show with a timeless classic, namely L’Appuntamento by Ornella Vanoni. More modern soundtracks took center stage at Etro and Tom Ford. The former collaborated with artist Miglio to bring Techno Pastoral to the runway, adding new verses by the singer-songwriter, while the latter succumbed to the intoxicating charm of Beyoncé's latest album, particularly the dance hall vibes of Summer Renaissance (produced on a sample of Donna Summer's I Feel Love).

In addition to mixes by some of the most popular artists and producers of the moment, some brands participating in Milan Fashion Week FW24 opted for live music. Gregorian chants returned to accompany the Marni runway, which once again collaborated with Blood Orange, while artist Mk.Gee was called upon by Jil Sander to perform during the show. Both providing a soundtrack of alternative lo-fi genre, they built a relaxing atmosphere on the calm notes of the two artists, in stark contrast to the dance energy of Roisin Murphy (known for the Moloko hit, Sing it Back), for Dolce&Gabbana. In short, this February, the Milan Fashion Week playlist did not disappoint, weaving a perfect mix of sweet discoveries and evocative dives into the past that colored the shows with just the right hues.