The best of fashion in 2023, according to nss readers
Items, trends, shows, emerging brands and celebrities
December 18th, 2023
The 2023 has been a challenging year for everyone, including the fashion industry, and the factors contributing to a widespread state of global fragility are a major concern for fashion industry CEOs. In the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2023 Survey, 85 percent of industry experts surveyed predict that inflation will continue to challenge the market in the coming year, while geopolitical tensions continue to hinder supply chains. Uncertainty and concerns about the future can slow down our purchases, but the discovery of new trends, viral items, styles, and aesthetics unearthed from TikTok like a time machine knows no bounds. In fact, in difficult times, fashion reveals its escapist nature. In our rankings, we tried to summarize the items, trends, shows, emerging brands, and celebrities of 2023, but the winners were voted by you, readers, on our social channels, revealing quite a few surprises.
The best viral item: Gucci's G Chain Bra
Gucci's FW23 show, also known as the "middle show" during the creative director's vacancy, paid homage to the brand's most exceptional looks from its archive, including the G Chain Bra, a bra entirely made of crystals worn by Vittoria Ceretti in the dedicated campaign, available for purchase at the price of $18,000. The garment captured the attention of fashion show attendees and immediately became the star of a series of social media reposts, quickly becoming the most desired item on the internet. NSS readers are not immune to its charm, as they chose this precious intimate piece as the best viral item of the year, followed by Bottega Veneta's trompe-l'oeil denim, JW's frog mules, Louis Vuitton's Millionaire, and MSCHF's Astro Boots.
The best fashion show: Miu Miu FW23
Among the fashion shows, Miu Miu has earned the title of winner, confirming the results of the latest Lyst report and outperforming the competition. If the audience thought that Miu Miu had its new moment of glory with the now legendary raw edge set, no one was prepared for this show. FW23 was the runway that brought officecore into the conversation: twin sets worn without pants, layers of retro-flavored entirely transparent dresses, that hoodie that lives rent-free in the minds of so many brand customers (or aspiring ones), the collaboration with Church’s, nerd glasses. For the other brands in the running (Undercover with its dreamy butterflies, Louis Vuitton with the Pont Neuf epic, Marni and polka dots in Tokyo, JW with its childhood games): maybe next year.
The best emerging brand: Cormio
"It was nice to have a voice in such a problematic year," says the founder of the brand Jezabelle Cormio. "In my youth, I don't remember having role models that reflected the things that were really out there." Cormio depicts female reality through collections that bring out not only positive aspects like motherhood and adolescent memories but also the most problematic and contemporary themes, such as fear. A brand that has long cultivated a close collaboration with the artist Madame and that surprises its audience every year with emotionally impactful shows. Following closely behind is PDF by Domenico Formichetti, Cormio has won the hearts of NSS readers as the emerging brand of the year, thanks to its histrionic aesthetic and a powerful voice that goes beyond the garments.
The best trend: Nude Look
The title of the best trend of 2023 goes to the Nude Look: it's impossible to count how many famous women have left their homes this year without wearing any kind of pants. A falsely provocative silhouette but incredibly chic when the rest of the outfit has a well-mannered and vaguely bourgeois flavor. A case in point: Kendall Jenner in Bottega Veneta, as well as Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid in their frequent sightings on the streets of New York or Los Angeles. To protect themselves from the weather, potential drafts, or prying eyes, the look also includes a mega oversized jacket that serves as a curtain to reveal a glimpse of bare leg. Good rankings also for Indie Sleaze that makes Millennials dream, tied for third place distressing and officecore, but no glory for layering.
Most influential celebrities: Asap Rocky and Rihanna
Winning this special ranking is the most iconic celebrity couple of the moment formed by A$AP Rocky and Rihanna. Perfectly matched on any occasion, from gala events to Sunday walks, the two have experimented with every type of style, showcasing furs and gold jewelry, but also various silhouettes: from regular fit suits to looser ones, through ivy league style to total Bottega Veneta and Rick Owens looks. Following on the podium, respectively in second and third place, are Rosalía and Jeremy Allen White tied with Pedro Pascal, and bringing up the rear is Paul Mescal, who has all of 2024 to make you reconsider with his new film All us strangers.