BOY London Italia - Phenomenology Of The Legal Fake Made In Barletta

Founded in 1976 by Stephane Raynor BOY London’s hystory is a true model of resistance and adaptation on times. Adored by the underground scene and worn in the past thirty years from every subculture worthy of this name - from fashionistas to new romantics - the brand created at 153 Kings Road stood the test of time remaining nowadays one of the most loved brands.

Based on an aestethic communion between fashion and music, since its openening the streets in front of the 153 Kings Road vibrated energic animated by amateaurs and fashion maniacs looking for the fresh extravaganza on which BOY London founded its succes while in the backroom Philip Salon, Sid Vicious and Billy Idol helped run the business. After a short break in 1978 with the Blitz Kids, Raynor helped creating the first real club culture, in 1980 BOY London catched back his attention marking a new dawn in the punk spirit and the New Romantics scene.

The iconic relevance of the brand continues relentless in he further decades when among the 80s and the 90s became the ordinance uniform of the acid movement. At the height of its success, in the new millenium, BOY London decides to get in touch with its international admirers launching an on-line store and landing in few strictly selected retailers. The BOY brand consecrated itself as a must have despite a period out of the fashion scene in the 90s with an opening in 2007 of Raynor’s new store in East London, SICK, relaunching BOY London with two new creative directors: Long’s Gareth Emmett and Rhys Dawney.

Under Emmet and Dawney’s direction, BOY London faithfully reproduces the items from 80s, like the iconic eagle worn as a counter culture symbol in the punk era now printed on leggings and miniskirts. BOY London, now a significant part of the mainstream scene, manages its comeback in this new era without sacrificing its elitist and avant-garde spirit.

Today we put a sad spotlight on our beautiful country, Italy, where a BOY London “legal fake” is manufactured and sold without actually defrauding law but brutally exploiting the reputational capital and the cultural heritage of the original brand. BOY London Italia ( please read it as “BOY London Barletta”) has carved a large slice of italian market that, actually, it wouldn’t be entitled to have.

Taking advantage of the most classic and beloved elements of BOY London, BOY London Italia not only deceives in the name - easily exchangeable for an italian dealer of the original BOY London - but it makes a mockery of the least experts unable to grasp the small differences in the design, convinced to buy the original brand. BOY London a’s appeal on youth and its intrinsic value is undeniable, partecipating over time in the creation of a reputational capital of the buyers. But, if it is crystal clear what’s searching and feeling who wears the original, what kind of damage can the wearer of the legal fake lead to the brand’s reputation?

The story begins in 2013 when an Italian company in Barletta (Puglia), has decided to start a mass production of items clearly inspired (read: brutally copied) on the eponymous British brand. Perverting the punk and elitist identity of the original brand, this Italian game has a perfectly legal facade; the “Boy London Italia” brand is thus registered so it bears the “original” inscription on all its items - both the sold and the given away - increasing the belief of the buyers of owning the original line simply bought from an italian dealer.

In virtue of a perfectly “legal” conduct, BOY London Italia sponsors events and offers merchandise to those who they recall in line with their brand identity (as italian reality shows’ stars). At the beginning of 2013 both the production and the online sale was managed by a site called and only in 2016 the Barletta’s company bought an identical domain of BOY London UK, launching the website, absent in Italian territory.

“This is the secret: our designers are driven by passion for their work and lively curiosity that leads them to experiment, draw, assemble according to the target audience that changes from brand to brand. This commitment summarizes the mission of Dream Project: that is to fascinate the global market with innovative cutting, color and material. Collection after collection" - taken from the presentation of "BOY London Italia’s" owner.

Now a question arises: how could this happened?
In order to answer this question, we hark back to what Maison Group’s store manager, Alessandro Altomare, told us on the Supreme Italia legal fake phenomenon during a series of interviews conducted by our team.

“The first step to understanding such a phenomenon is to acknowledge Supreme's position in Italy. Most likely, the "superbrand" didn't really care that much for the Italian market, and, in legal terms, this has left some gaps that allowed a group of simple manufacturers to register their activity under the name Supreme. It's a boomerang effect the web created. The data are too accessible to all” - Alessandro Altomare.

As well as Supreme Italia also BOY London Italia is a totally italian local phenomenon (even though this trend seems to becoming an established market in some South American countries). The “legal fake” is indeed available exclusevely on Italian soil either through the online shop or in local retailers, often completely unaware of selling non original garments.

We want to thank the guys of the BOY LONDON STORY page which have prepared an helpful guide for recognite this “authentic” fake that can be find here.