Elsa Schiaparelli Haute Couture FW14

Eccentric, opulent, provocative, sophisticated, always fascinating. Schiaparelli is back, for the second time under the leadership of Marco Zanini. There is all Elsa's legacy, the codes of her fashion too. The saturated colors emphasize the geometry of the cuts, bold prints and design applications provoke and make you dream, big shoulders and hourglass shapes for the day alternate with sinuous silhouettes swathed in evening gowns. The opposites join in Schiaparelli' style.

 

Marco Zanini explores the overflowing personality of the founder-muse, delves into the intricacies of excess generating a kaleidoscopic collection that balances bold femininity and sophisticated elegance. There is the blue velvet dress with a heart that bleeds rubies, the one covered with squirrels, the double-breasted leopard coat with sable sleeves, the long Tsarina coat and the bolero in glazed ostrich feathers that mimics the fur of a monkey. Each garment, accessorized with extravagant hats by Stephen Jones, is irony, creativity, eclectic glamor and irreverence.

 

The visual impact is impressive and Zanini is skilled in reshaping the contours of an iconic style.