Chanel Cruise Collection 2015

Dubai. A small artificial island, an oasis of sand with palm trees, cactus, Bedouin tents furnished with carpets and pillows, has a structure of glass and gold on which check the Chanel logo.

It's the sunset and the soundtrack by Michel Gaubert accompanies the cruise collection of  the French maison. In this scene from the Arabian Nights parades what Karl Lagerfeld describes as: " A romantic idea, without any touch of folklore, as it is in my imagination of an East of the 21st century."

The designer creates a mirage, an Arab Atlantis, daughter of Poiret's exoticism, but also of the country in economic ascent, where you can see the echo of the tales of Scheherazade, but also the one of the protagonists of the international jet set. It 's a collection dominated by fluid and vaporous tissue, embellished with metallic embroidery, from canvas work with reminiscent of the Moorish mosaics of Alhambra and camellias made by leather.

For the key pieces like Chanel boucle jacket and tweed suits Kaiser Karl joins the Bedouin in velvet slippers, long floral caftans and harem pants. The models have Kohl rimmed eyes, hair decorated with a tiara in the shape of the moon, some have a quilted bag -shaped tank of gas, refer to the treasure of the place that hosts the show, but also particular that relates this last work with previous supermarket-collection. Every detail leaves enchanted the audience, including the inevitable Vanessa Paradis, Tilda Swinton and Dakota Fanning. Everything is well-kept, detailed, precious, filled, but stops before falling into caricature.