Long Live the Tabi

If you are a Tabi wearer, you know that wearing them daily often comes with a few raised eyebrows from strangers glancing down at your feet. If you are not a Tabi wearer, you’ve probably raised a few eyebrows yourself at the hoof-shaped shoe. Although this silhouette still divides opinion, the Maison Margiela Tabi has found quiet permanence in the streets of Paris. Its distinctive split-toe design—originally inspired by 15th-century Japanese tabi socks—has evolved from avant-garde anomaly to embedded street style fixture. First introduced in 1988 during Martin Margiela’s debut runway show, the Tabi was initially met with shock and shutter. Its cloven form disrupted expectations, prompting strong reactions from critics and wearers alike. For years, the shoe existed on the margins—favored by fashion insiders but rarely seen in everyday wear. That changed in 2023, when the Tabi surged into the digital spotlight, thanks in part to a viral TikTok story dubbed “The Tabi Swiper,” in which a stolen pair sparked widespread online fascination. The moment reintroduced the silhouette to a new generation and sparked debate over its newfound visibility.

While the “Tabi Swiper” incident may have accelerated the shoe’s viral momentum, the Tabi’s ascent has been building steadily over the past several years. Maison Margiela has sustained and expanded interest in the silhouette through a thoughtful strategy of seasonal reinterpretation—introducing new materials, finishes, and forms that range from minimalist ballet flats to sculptural boots in high-shine metallics or translucent PVC. This approach has broadened the Tabi’s appeal while preserving its conceptual integrity. In Paris, the Tabi’s evolution has felt less like a trend and more like a natural return. From showroom stylists to university students, the Tabi is worn with an ease that suggests fluency rather than novelty. As the fashion landscape continues to shift away from overt branding, the Tabi’s unmistakable split-toe design offers a subtler kind of recognition.

While the shoe’s form pays homage to traditional Japanese tabi socks, its place in contemporary fashion is inextricably tied to French design. Born on a Paris runway, the Tabi’s ongoing presence on the city’s sidewalks reads as a kind of homecoming—a once-radical silhouette that has settled effortlessly into the city’s visual landscape. In 2025, spotting a pair of Tabis is not a rarity. They’ve become part of Paris’s fashion vernacular. Whether it's a black Mary Jane under a tailored trench or a scuffed leather boot tucked into slouchy denim, the Tabi has cemented itself as a subtle yet deliberate choice in the Parisian wardrobe. Maison Margiela has never relied on spectacle or mass marketing to keep the shoe in circulation. Its cult status was built organically—through repetition, subculture, and a kind of whispered reverence that travels from foot to foot.

In many ways, the Tabi represents the kind of long-term relationship with style that Parisians have long embodied. Here, it’s not a fleeting “It” shoe, but a design that deepens with wear. The creases, scuffs, and softened leather don’t diminish its appeal. They enhance it, aging in tandem with the wearer. Its influence, of course, extends far beyond the streets of Paris. The Tabi lives and breathes in Hollywood too, most recently making a red carpet appearance at the 2025 GLAAD Media Awards on Doechii—arguably one of the most closely watched names in showbiz today. Styled by Sam Woolf in a full look from John Galliano’s SS24 ready-to-wear collection, she paired black-and-white Oxford Tabi heels with a laminated nude plastic corset, a deconstructed black midi skirt with white stitching, and a measuring tape scarf draped around her neck. It was a theatrical, deconstructed look that honored the Maison’s DNA and once again confirmed the Tabi’s unique ability to move between worlds. Whether it inspires obsession or skepticism, one thing is clear: the Tabi is not disappearing anytime soon. Especially in Paris, its longevity feels assured. What began as a silhouette worn by fashion’s fringe has cemented itself as part of the city’s everyday wardrobe. In a global fashion climate still hung up on hype and virality, the Tabi has quietly evolved past the noise. In Paris, the Tabi is walking steady.