Are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez the right fit for Loewe?

Last Monday, it was officially announced that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of the renowned New York City-based brand Proenza Schouler, have been appointed as the new creative directors of Loewe. Beginning April 7, the duo will oversee all of Loewe’s collections, including womenswear, menswear, accessories, and leather goods, as confirmed by the French group in a statement. This strategic move aligns with LVMH’s ongoing efforts to revitalize its financial performance amidst a global luxury slowdown. In 2024, the group's revenues saw a 2% decline, falling to €84.7 billion ($88.3 billion) compared to the previous year. Additionally, Jonathan Anderson, who has been instrumental in Loewe’s success, is expected to assume the creative direction of Dior, LVMH’s second-largest brand. While the fashion conglomerate does not disclose individual label sales, The Business of Fashion reported that Dior’s growth has been “slightly below average,” with analysts suggesting a potential double-digit percentage decline in recent months. Interestingly, Loewe’s current position didn’t necessarily call for an immediate overhaul. Under Anderson’s 11-year tenure, the Spanish house flourished, achieving a global reputation for its craftsmanship, cultural relevance, and innovation. As reported by Vogue Business, «Loewe’s sales surged from approximately €230 million in 2014 (as estimated by Morgan Stanley) to €1.5 billion–€2 billion in 2024, based on Bernstein analyst Luca Solca’s projections.» 

The decision has been made, and it’s sparking conversations across the industry. Much like the buzz surrounding Demna’s appointment at Gucci, the question on everyone’s mind now is: Are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez the perfect fit to steer Loewe into its next era?? LVMH executive Sidney Toledano stated: "I have long admired Jack and Lazaro’s work at Proenza Schouler, their eclectic creativity and dedication to craft make them a natural choice to build the next chapter for Loewe." At first glance, the answer seems promising. With Proenza Schouler’s solid foundation, McCollough and Hernandez bring a wealth of experience and creative vision to the Spanish luxury house. They also have an invaluable advantage in their corner: time. In an industry often defined by rapid transitions and fleeting moments, Jonathan Anderson’s thoughtful tenure has paved the way for his successors by allowing them the breathing room to chart their own transformative course. What’s ahead is undeniably exciting. They’ll collaborate with one of the finest craftsmanship teams in the industry, and their arrival coincides with a series of remarkable initiatives, such as the much-anticipated “Crafted World” exhibition opening in Tokyo on March 29, a teapot exhibition at Salone del Mobile in Milan this April, the return of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize to Madrid for its ninth edition, the transformation of Loewe’s Avenue Montaigne boutique into a full Casa concept and the unveiling of a Loewe Casa building in Tokyo’s Ginza district.

Another compelling reason lies in their journey. McCollough and Hernandez built Proenza Schouler from the ground up, launching their womenswear and accessories brand in 2002 shortly after graduating from Parsons School of Design. Over the past two decades, their work has reinvigorated American fashion, seamlessly blending contemporary culture with an artistic sensibility and a meticulous exploration of craft. Their ability to harmonize modernity with desirability is evident in their iconic designs, such as the PS11 bag, which followed the success of their original PS1 style launched in late 2008. Their visionary approach to accessories, paired with the commercial expertise and strategic guidance of the conglomerate, could ignite another Puzzle, Hammock or Flamenco cult status bag. Additionally, their talent for cultivating relationships with global stars adds another layer of potential. McCollough and Hernandez have dressed renowned celebrities like Cate Blanchett, Beyoncé, and Mikey Madison, often without intentionally designing for the red carpet. As the fashion world watches closely, there’s a sense of excitement about what this duo will bring to Loewe. Their creative vision and expertise are expected to further enhance Loewe’s trajectory, solidifying its position as a leader in the luxury fashion landscape.