New creatives to watch out for at ITS Contest 2025

To understand what the future of fashion design will be, you need to go to Trieste, where for the past 23 years, the ITS Contest has been held. The scouting initiative, founded by Barbara Franchin in 2002, aims to promote and support young creatives. To achieve this, ITS provides the spaces of the Arcademy to designers for ten days of residence, where they can use new tools and learn from some of the best representatives of the fashion industry. This year, the Foundation has taken an extra step in promoting new talents, deciding to extend the initial prize of 10,000 euros to all selected participants. It is truly an unmissable opportunity for all sectors of the Italian and international fashion system: the young talents chosen by ITS have the chance to make themselves known, understand which direction to take after graduation, or even learn how to launch their own business; the jury members get to understand the interests of new generations and possibly discover new creatives to recruit into their ateliers, while the press gains direct insight into the values and state of future fashion. During the presentations of the ten designers and their collections at the ITS Arcademy, a space that merges archive and academy (and represents the first contemporary fashion museum in Italy), their values emerged as the driving force behind each project. From well-being to sustainability, from memory preservation to functionality and inclusivity, the participants of ITS Contest 2025 offered a preview of everything fashion will focus on in the coming years. 

More than a competition, ITS Contest offers «a shared experience». During the residence period, participants have the opportunity to exchange ideas, collaborate, and challenge themselves. The designers selected for the new edition (a selection process that also involved a jury composed of numerous established figures such as Andrea Rosso, Serge Carreira, Orsola de Castro, Sara Sozzani Maino, Marco Sammicheli, Carlo Giordanetti, Emanuele Coccia, Luca Rizzi, Maria Sole Ferragamo, Matteo Ward, Stefano Gallici) are exceptional talents. Naya El Ahdab, a French designer born in 2002, created the collection Neuroblastome for people with disabilities, blending tailored elegance, sculptural silhouettes, and neutral colors. The looks, including trench coats, dresses, and the innovative seated dress, are designed to enhance sitting comfort through padding, while pleats and soft structures elevate the design. Another example is Macy Grimshaw, also French, born in 2001, who found inspiration in her grandmother for her collection, addressing the theme of Alzheimer's disease and its effects in a sweet and nostalgic way. Paper is the protagonist of her collection Rue de Mauricette, serving as a key tool for memories and recollection. Her grandmother’s youthful photos were printed on large posters and worn as they were, while her husband’s letters were printed on a flesh-colored suit, naturally fading over time. 

Mijoda Dajomi

Naya El Ahdab

Naya El Ahdab

Naya El Ahdab

Gabrielle Szwarcenberg

Gabrielle Szwarcenberg

Gabrielle Szwarcenberg

Maximilian Raynor

Maximilian Raynor

Maximilian Raynor

Patrick Taylor

Patrick Taylor

Patrick Taylor

Qianhan Liu

Qianhan Liu

Qianhan Liu

Zhuen Cai

Zhuen Cai

Zhuen Cai

Cindy Zhaohan

Cindy Zhaohan

Cindy Zhaohan

Mijoda Dajomi

Mijoda Dajomi

Mijoda Dajomi

Naya El Ahdab

Then there is Qianhan Liu, a Chinese designer born in 1998, who explores themes such as the obsessive pursuit of well-being and the contemporary utopian lifestyle in a philosophical collection, drawing inspiration equally from Western and Eastern cultures. American preppy style, traditional tailoring, and the draping found in East Asian temples converge in looks where wood, printed onto leather, transforms into dresses, jackets, pants, and shoes. In addition to the residence and the 10,000 euros distributed to the participants of the new edition, ITS Contest and its supporters have provided numerous other prizes. The winner of the jury prize, Maximilian Raynor, will receive a personalized service from the Foundation tailored to his needs, reaffirming ITS Arcademy's commitment to truly supporting its students. Raynor, born in 1998, won over the jury with his Manor for Heaven, showcasing creativity and dramatic expression. His looks embody the dreamy and narrative spirit of the designer, who drew inspiration from history and theater to create a universe dedicated to the community of the oppressed engaged in an anti-patriarchal protest. 

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders

In a new edition full of talent, ITS Contest has once again become a platform representing new generations and the direction of future fashion. The Foundation also had the opportunity to emphasize the importance of collaboration at a time when the Italian (and international) fashion system is facing deep challenges. During the press conference, the Undersecretary for Culture, Sen. Lucia Borgonzoni, was also present, stating that fashion should be more integrated into the Ministry of Culture's initiatives. To support this, Borgonzoni added, «we started with the PNR and the 155 million allocated to cultural and creative enterprises, and we pushed for a dedicated section on fashion in the Made in Italy law». During the conference, Barbara Franchin stated that ITS would «greatly benefit from support from the Italian system». The founder emphasized that Italy is «a nation that thrives on the fashion sector, so we should learn to work as a team and build a system». Franchin’s words once again confirm that, despite Italy's vast pool of talent, the country needs better tools. The ITS Foundation, from the beautiful city of Trieste, is demonstrating how this can be done. 

The works of the finalists and winners of the ITS Contest will be exhibited as part of the "Borderless" exhibition, scheduled from March 27, 2024, at ITS Arcademy - Museum of Art in Fashion, held alongside "Fashionlands - Clothes Beyond Borders," curated by Olivier Saillard and Emanuele Coccia.