When ties are no longer ties

You may not know it, but the tie became a staple of men's wardrobes not thanks to the original finance bros, whose three-piece suit uniform is never complete without a pop of color tied around the neck, but rather due to 17th-century Croatian horsemen. When Louis XIII discovered these fabric pieces and their ability to completely transform military attire, he decided to introduce this accessory to the court, where it later took on the name "cravate" (derived from the word "Croat"). Long, short, slim, wide: the tie immediately became a global symbol of the elite, the military, power, and masculinity. It continued to embody these things well into the 1980s: any self-respecting man aiming to climb the social ladder wore a tie. Cinema also gave the tie a boost during this era, particularly through the looks of Patrick Bateman in American Psycho, the unofficial representation of the handsome, wealthy, successful businessman (mentally unstable as well, but that’s a detail we won’t dwell on this time). With the rise of trends like casual Friday, allowing corporate employees to dress more casually on Fridays, or the success of businessmen unconcerned with fashion—like Steve Jobs and his iconic turtleneck or Mark Zuckerberg and his geeky t-shirts—the tie has somewhat lost its luster. However, it remains a timeless classic in men’s fashion, resisting shifting trends and consumer desires. Yet, while the fabric once worn by Croatians in Versailles' golden age unintentionally launched a trend that still elevates any outfit to a higher level of elegance, in 2025, the shape, color, and even material of the tie have changed in many ways.

Some of the modern pop culture icons exemplifying this change include Timothée Chalamet, who appeared at last weekend’s SAG Awards wearing a $25,000 Cartier watch as a tie, or Ayo Adebiri, who donned a gray Loewe ensemble at the Golden Globes in January, decorated with a golden feather stretching from the base of her neck to her chest. But these celebrity looks come from somewhere: a quick glance at the latest runway shows of top fashion houses confirms that the traditional tie is out, while tying just about anything around one’s neck and calling it a tie is in. This reinterpretation of the tie and its meaning became particularly clear for the first time with the fashion house Schiaparelli and its FW24 collection "Esprit de Schiap” presented by Daniel Roseberry last March. While the American designer’s signature minimalist and avant-garde looks won over much of the audience and fashion sphere, one particular accessory from the second look of the collection captured everyone’s attention and curiosity: the braided hair tie. Made from real human hair and available in various colors to complement the outfit, this stylistic choice was meant to honor the surrealism that has defined Schiaparelli since its inception. But Roseberry is not the only one who decided it was time for the tie to change texture. For his SS25 menswear collection, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe adorned his models with a very particular type of tie: one or several feathers, sometimes gray, sometimes gold, extending from the models' foreheads. Prada, on the other hand, did not explore the animalistic theme but subtly introduced a few unique ties in its FW25 menswear collection, crafted from a chain of iron that extended straight from the neck to the chest. Which brings us to the latest iteration of non-traditional ties: those of Gucci, presented yesterday in the house’s FW25 collection. The collection Continuum by Gucci, currently without a creative director, honored the Italian house’s heritage by reimagining its iconic horsebit motif. But instead of placing it on loafers or using it as a bag closure, as the brand has done in the past, this time, it was worn around the neck. Whether worn like a necklace or in a more straight and serious manner, this year’s horsebit is presented as a true tie—one that could grant access to the most elite offices for those daring enough to pair it with a sharp, well-tailored suit.

Following Saint Laurent’s SS25 women’s ready-to-wear collection, which spotlighted women through bold power dressing with oversized suits and traditional ties, and Bottega Veneta’s SS25, where leather ties were mixed with loosely knotted ties draped over open, wrinkled shirts, it seems that the tie—regardless of its shape, color, or material—is trendier than ever. Sometimes misused, like by Donald Trump and his eternally bright red tie symbolizing love, but also power, pride, and war, the accessory remains a strong and daring fashion statement, especially when worn out of its traditional context. This update of the tie, its purpose, and its symbolism reminds us that any fashion piece—no matter how serious or elitist—is ultimately a means of expression, creativity, and reinvention. Who knows what the Croatian soldiers would think of Timothée Chalamet’s Cartier tie? What we do know is that we approve of the idea and will be closely watching upcoming red carpets and fashion shows in search of the most original tie.