Fendi turns 100

The Roman fashion house with the double F turns one hundred years old. Starting from a small leather goods shop in Rome, on Via del Plebiscito, founded by Adele Casagrande in 1918, Fendi has become, over time, a true institution in the world of fashion. With the marriage of Adele and Edoardo Fendi, the family name became inextricably linked to the brand, and in 1925, the family-run Fendi company was born, founded on the values of craftsmanship and attention to detail. Casagrande and Fendi passed this philosophy on to their five daughters—Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda—who, under the matriarchal guidance of Adele Casagrande after the unexpected death of her husband in 1954, took over the reins of the company. Deeply connected to the Eternal City and well aware of their capabilities, the sisters evenly divided their roles, managing different sectors within the company with the shared goal of expanding the project started by their parents. The 1950s marked a time when Italian fashion began to gain recognition on an international level. The Fendi sisters, with their different but complementary personalities, led the brand towards new horizons, allowing Fendi to secure a prominent place in both the national and international fashion scene.

In the 1960s, Fendi’s history took a groundbreaking turn with the arrival of Karl Lagerfeld as creative director of the fur division in 1964. The German designer revolutionized the industry with a visionary approach, transforming fur from an outdated, rigid, and ostentatious garment into a relaxed and seductive fashion element. Lagerfeld introduced innovative materials, never-before-seen techniques, and designs that disrupted the traditional perception of fur, which until then had been considered an exclusive luxury. His creations played with color, volume, and lightness, challenging the conventions of a historically stiff and austere garment. His influence was evident from the very first collections, earning the appreciation of critics and the public alike.

The legendary Fendi logo, with its iconic reversed double "F", was created shortly after Lagerfeld’s arrival. Initially conceived as a discreet detail for linings, it quickly became a status symbol. Few know that the double F does not stand for Fendi, but rather Fun Fur. As Lagerfeld often stated, it took him just five seconds to design it—five seconds that helped shape the collective imagination around the Roman fashion house. The 1970s marked the brand’s global recognition. In 1977, the maison launched its first prêt-à-porter collection, expanding its stylistic repertoire beyond accessories and furs. During this period, Fendi became synonymous with a new femininity—sophisticated and bold, blending tradition with modernity. The collections of the 1980s and 1990s further solidified the brand’s success, thanks to an innovative aesthetic and a timeless elegance.

By 1997, Fendi was already an established name, but the launch of the Baguette, created by then-accessories creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, marked a real turning point for the company. Working alongside Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini Fendi designed a handbag with clean and essential lines, destined to become an icon. The Baguette appeared in late 1990s and early 2000s TV series, becoming a true cult item thanks to Sex and the City. One of the most famous scenes features Carrie Bradshaw being mugged and exclaiming: «It's not a bag, it's a Baguette!» With the Spring/Summer 2000 collection, Fendi’s fame and desirability skyrocketed. «Karl Lagerfeld presented one of the most powerful collections of the season, firmly placing Fendi at the center of the fashion scene,» Vogue Runway reported at the time. Alongside the iconic python leather Baguette, vibrant tote bags, and refined foulards, the clothing pieces stole the spotlight, contrasting ethereal fabrics with the bold allure of a Studio 54 diva wrapped in Halston creations. Once again, Lagerfeld created an innovative, harmonious, and perfectly balanced silhouette that captivated even the youngest fashion consumers.

In 1999, Fendi caught the attention of industry giants: LVMH and Prada joined forces to acquire the Roman maison, each taking a 25.5% stake, with the Fendi family still involved. But the three-way partnership was short-lived: in 2001, Prada sold its share to LVMH, which gradually increased its stake until it gained full control. In 2007, the Roman maison made history on the Great Wall of China with an unprecedented event: under a starry sky, an army of models walked down an eighty-meter runway, while Fendi’s iconic “F” logo was projected onto the majestic structure. Even Michael Burke, then CEO of Fendi, couldn’t hide his emotion: «They granted us this incredible opportunity because Fendi is an Italian brand, and here, Italy has enjoyed a great reputation since the time of Marco Polo.» Carla Fendi, moved, recalled her parents’ words: «They knew this name would become famous, but they could never have imagined such magic.»

In 2008, the Peekaboo bag was born, initially called Hide-and-Seek and once again created by Silvia Venturini Fendi. The name, inspired by the game "Peek-a-boo, I see you," evokes the smiling effect the bag creates, always slightly open, becoming a perfect symbol of the balance between craftsmanship and design innovation. In 2015, Fendi celebrated 50 years of Karl Lagerfeld’s artistic direction at the maison with a "haute fourrure” fashion show in Paris. The designer was known for his aversion to birthdays and anniversaries—he loved to say «I never look back»—but the maison couldn’t let its 90th anniversary go unnoticed. Karl Lagerfeld chose Rome’s Trevi Fountain as the centerpiece of the show, an icon of La Dolce Vita, which Fendi restored for the occasion with a $2.4 million investment. The Couture FW16 collection featured floral motifs, embroidery, and fur details, paired with ankle boots. «As the fountains lit up again, models walked on a transparent runway suspended over the water, creating one of the most majestic spectacles ever seen. Few shows can compare, among them surely the 2007 show on the Great Wall of China,» wrote Nicole Phelps for Vogue Runway. Lagerfeld drew inspiration from a 1914 fairy tale book illustrated by Danish artist Kay Nielsen. Some of his illustrations were faithfully reproduced in the collection’s designs. «I called the show ‘Legends and Fairy Tales’ because it’s not a collection for everyone, like prêt-à-porter. It’s for those who live a very special kind of life.»

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi created a unique identity for Fendi, starting with fur and handbags and transforming a small shop on Via del Plebiscito into a brand that reached the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. In 2019, with Lagerfeld’s passing, an era came to an end for Fendi. Silvia Venturini Fendi took over creative direction for the men's collections and accessories, carrying forward the brand’s legacy. The arrival of Kim Jones in 2020 as the creative director of womenswear marked a new chapter for the brand: the English designer, leading Fendi until 2024, blended modernity and tradition, bringing a fresh and sophisticated vision to the maison. Over the years, he interpreted the brand’s heritage by mixing haute couture and streetwear influences in well-balanced collections, with a more wearable approach compared to Lagerfeld’s theatricality. Today, the overall creative direction of the brand has returned to Silvia Venturini Fendi, who still represents the third generation of Adele and Edoardo Fendi’s dream. Now reaching its centenary, this year Fendi celebrates one hundred years of history and family. Eternal, sensual, romantic—Fendi.