The story of Anna Molinari's Blumarine

Defined as "the queen of roses" by Beppe Modenese, Anna Molinari created, together with Gianpaolo Tarabini, a story that has enchanted entire generations. Her creation, Blumarine, has never been just a brand; it has been a statement of intent, a hymn to the sensual and romantic beauty of women. With her unmistakable touch, Molinari has told the story of a blooming rose: fascinating and sharp, irresistible, deeply feminine, and provocative. Blumarine was born in 1977 in Carpi, in the province of Modena, and its growth was immediately overwhelming. In 1980, the brand made its debut at Modit in Milan, a valuable showcase for the young brand. That same year, Anna Molinari won the title of Designer of the Year. But it was in 1988, with the foundation of the Blufin group, that Blumarine embarked on a more structured growth and diversified. Blumarine became the center of an ecosystem that included Blugirl and Anna Molinari, creating a diversified offering but always united by the same vision of an elegant, sensual, and never vulgar woman.

Blumarine: the driving force of Blufin

It was 1993. A young Monica Bellucci posed on a bed: she wore a white and light blue checkered corset, denim shorts with a jeweled belt. Two braids languidly rested on her chest, her legs stretched out, her gaze magnetic—this was the 1993 campaign. The Blumarine woman is powerful yet delicate, sensual but never vulgar. She is a romantic woman who knows the rules of seduction. In 1981, the brand debuted on the runway during Fashion Week, marking the beginning of a succession of successes and increasing internationalization. The woman imagined by Molinari is enveloped in soft colors: blush pink, pastel cardigans, bon-ton coats. She wears flared lace dresses that sway with every step, adorned with floral appliqués—roses, mimosa, and deep necklines. The shaved and embroidered furs, a refined and exquisitely feminine aesthetic, conquered the world. In 1990, the first Blumarine boutique opened in Via della Spiga in Milan, and over time, the brand was sold in more than 400 boutiques worldwide. Photographers such as Helmut Newton, Tim Walker, and Ellen von Unwerth captured the essence of Blumarine, contributing to spreading its myth.

FW 2012 Collection

SS 2000 Collection

SS 2000 Collection

SS 2000 Collection

SS 2007 Collection

SS 2007 Collection

SS 2007 Collection

FW 2012 Collection

FW 2012 Collection

FW 2012 Collection

SS 2000 Collection

The world of Blumarine adorned women with roses and animal prints. In 1999, for the SS 2000 collection, Anna Molinari drew inspiration from One Thousand and One Nights. Vogue Runway called it "brazenly festive": «Ethnic motifs everywhere, in the form of dragons embroidered with beads, Indian-style details, and zebra prints inspired by Africa. A wild celebration of the concept of decoration». Nicole Phelps, in 2006, wrote on Vogue: «As much as Milan Fashion Week could benefit from a few pantsuits, one does not attend the Blumarine show for that». For SS 2007, the Blumarine collection focused on timeless femininity with party dresses and jeweled cardigans, inspired by a mix of Hollywood glamour, chiffon, floral embroidery, and precious details. Blumarine represented the dream of high-society ladies who wanted to dress in something a little bolder than what was morally allowed, without ever feeling judged. "Positively shining": in the FW 2012 collection, Anna Molinari focused on voluminous and colorful furs. The success and continuous appeal of Blumarine under Molinari's direction stemmed from the ability to mix sensuality and decorative excess with a reduction in modesty. All of this always remained within a bon-ton aesthetic that could be kitsch yet sober, perfectly accepted in “bourgeois salons.”

Blugirl

Blugirl Fall 2017 Collection

Blugirl Fall 2017 Collection

Blugirl Fall 2017 Collection

Blugirl Fall 2017 Collection

Blugirl Fall 2017 Collection

Blugirl was born in 1995 with the ambitious goal of winning over a younger and more dynamic clientele, less inclined to invest in luxury but still eager for the elegance and femininity distinctive of the parent brand, Blumarine. Its creation fits perfectly into a period of global expansion for the brand, which in the '90s was already consolidating its identity on the international scene. Blugirl thus became the manifesto of a contemporary vision of women: fresh, spontaneous, yet without giving up the grace and elegance that have always distinguished the brand. A perfect blend of luxury and practicality, designed for a generation that wants to feel sophisticated but also accessible, bold without giving up delicacy. The brand stands out not only for being more accessible than its sister Blumarine but also for a tailoring choice that combines the softness and sensuality of fabrics with an explosion of colors and lively prints. An aesthetic universe where Blumarine's iconic romanticism merges with a more vibrant, modern, and provocative touch. Blugirl interpreted the cultural changes of the '90s and 2000s, offering fashion that was accessible yet carried strong aesthetic value, capable of keeping up with the times. Since 2020, when the creative direction of Be Blumarine (the new line of the Blufin group) was entrusted to Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, the designers of Au Jour Le Jour, the brand has intensified its offerings, enriching the catalog with a contemporary and elegant vision, designed for women aged 25 to 50.

The Anna Molinari Line

The Anna Molinari line debuted on the runway in Milan in 1995, opening a new segment for the Blufin group. Conceived as a high fashion collection, it aimed to express the sophisticated aesthetics and craftsmanship typical of the maison to the fullest. This line responded to the need to offer luxury creations that preserved the romantic and feminine vision of Blumarine, but with an even more exclusive and sensual interpretation, aimed at a very specific niche. For the SS 2000 collection, under the direction of Rossella Tarabini, Anna Molinari’s daughter, it was inspired by the idea of “Lou Lou goes on vacation with a suitcase of white and gold.” The collection was distinguished by the use of vivid prints, Pierrot-style dresses, floral appliqués, and an abundance of sequins. Chiffon dresses with the phrase “I love you” and Provencal floral patterns on velvet devoré completed the offering. According to Vogue Runway, «Tarabini believed her collection was “pure Saint-Tropez,” but many of its pieces would surely be well received at the colorful and extravagant parties in Rio de Janeiro».

For Autumn 2004, the collection was inspired by an evocative imaginary, combining elements of Bette Midler as Janis Joplin in *The Rose* with the essence of Virginia Woolf. Sarah Mower of Vogue Runway observed that «the reality, fortunately, was much simpler: Anna Molinari has always found a way to create elegant dresses, no matter what the mood of the season. This time, it was antique glamour with a ’70s accent». The collection featured a nostalgic charm, mixing vintage and modern elements with a fluidity that evoked timeless elegance. The Anna Molinari line maintained its uniqueness until 2008, when the brand decided to focus on other directions and the line was suspended. After nearly twenty years, in January of this year, Anna Molinari returned to the scene. During Pitti in Florence, the brand’s FW 2025-26 collection was presented. This return was made possible through a five-year licensing agreement between Franco Rossi and Exelite, the group founded by Marco Marchi that owns Blufin. Franco Rossi, specializing in knitwear, will develop the brand in the premium sector, with a particular focus on knitwear.

Blumarine After Anna

Shortly after, in 2019, the Blufin group was acquired by Marco Marchi, founder of Liu Jo. In 2020, Nicola Brognano, born in 1990, took over as creative director, remaining at the helm of the Carpi-based brand until October 2023. Since his debut, Brognano’s work focused on Y2K style icons. Throughout his tenure at Blumarine, the aesthetics of the 2000s were his reference point. As reported by Vogue Runway for the Fall 2021 collection, Brognano’s debut was clearly inspired by «his teenage heroines, Britney Spears and Paris Hilton, and the excesses of the 2000s. He was a big fan. Forget the flirtatious romanticism of Blumarine’s past». The designer himself declared: «My Blumarine is dirtier, bolder, sexier». Brognano’s work certainly brought Blumarine back into the spotlight, attracting a young generation connected to digital trends, thanks to the revival of the Y2K language and his audacious approach. However, this reinterpretation of the brand partially sacrificed the romantic and sophisticated roots that had defined Anna Molinari’s imagery. The transition to a more sensational and provocative aesthetic, with the help of stylist Lotta Volkova, marked a clear shift, but it was not always fully convincing for the nostalgics of the original Blumarine.

After Brognano’s departure, Walter Chiapponi arrived with a brief creative direction, lasting just one season. Chiapponi knew Blumarine well, having worked during the brand’s golden era from 2001 to 2005, under the guidance of Anna Molinari. Before representing Blumarine’s final collection, Fall 2024, the designer did not focus on the Y2K aesthetic but rather on the 1990s universe. «The collection had a delicate, realistic pragmatism; interpreted by a cast of diverse characters, it revisited Blumarine’s repertoire with Chiapponi’s contained and refined sensitivity» reports Tiziana Cardini on Vogue Runway. Animal print coats over slip dresses, teddy bear sweatshirts with rose buds perfect for him, black lace dresses with subtle charm, and mohair minidresses with heart details: Chiapponi reinvented Blumarine’s romanticism with modern touches and a playful seduction. In March 2024, the designer parted ways with Blumarine, choosing to focus on new initiatives and social and humanitarian projects. Currently, the creative direction is held by David Koma, a Georgian designer who, through the lookbook for the Pre-Fall 2025 season, introduces his vision of Blumarine, featuring fur-edged cardigans and roses. The words “Woof” and “Miao” adorn t-shirts and transparent slips, while soft details like ostrich feathers, sheepskin, and cashmere-effect pony hair enrich outerwear, knitwear, and accessories. Beyond the rich archive, the legacy of Anna Molinari and Giampaolo Tarabini is reflected in a real woman: sensual but not nostalgic, romantic but never cloying.