A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

A Guide to All Creative Directors

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Should luxury really save on sustainability?

Interview with Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of Canopy

Should luxury really save on sustainability? Interview with Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of Canopy

This week Stella McCartney bought its stake from LVMH and became independent again. For some, the news came out of nowhere like a bolt out of the blue, for others it was expected: after the US elections and the inauguration of Trump's second term, the big luxury groups (and in particular LVMH itself) began to show their support for the policies of the new US President. First of all Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH, who after attending Trump's inauguration ceremony praised the country's new direction. In France, said the group's CEO, «we should do like the United States and appoint someone who will reduce bureaucracy».  This explains why Stella McCartney, a designer champion of sustainability, may have decided to take her brand out of the hands of a tycoon who supports a head of state convinced that climate change is a «hoax». The McCartney case is not an isolated one because more and more companies, as reported in McKensey & Co.'s new report, The State of Fashion 2025, are scaling back their environmental efforts: sustainability is a priority for only 18% of fashion executives worldwide, a far lower figure than the 29% last year. The phenomenon is spreading like wildfire although, as non-profits like Canopy demonstrate, while eliminating sustainable practices from your company may initially seem like a good idea for funds, it is not an effective solution in the long run. 

Several companies are choosing to pay less attention to their environmental impact, despite the increasing implementation of new directives to encourage sustainability (especially in Europe). Until recently, one of the most pressing issues in fashion was greenwashing, misleading advertising designed to attract environmentally conscious consumers. Now, the conversation has shifted to greenhushing: fearing criticism, brands and companies are slowing down their eco-friendly activities or hiding them. The issue is not limited to marketing but extends to the core operations of companies—less funding is allocated to green initiatives, sustainability teams are reduced, or, as in the case of Unilever, the sustainability division is merged with others. According to Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of the non-profit Canopy, «It’s a mistake to view sustainability as a “nice-to-have” when, in reality, it’s a business imperative.» In a time of severe economic and social uncertainty like this, «consumers are increasingly expecting transparency and meaningful action.» Although cutting costs on environmental research might seem productive for a company’s future, the best course of action would actually be investment—and fortunately, some have realized this. Leading executives, Rycroft adds, «recognize that embracing sustainable and circular solutions is the key to long-term resilience and growth

To explain how companies can benefit from adopting more sustainable practices, the Canopy founder describes some steps brands could consider to improve their environmental impact—and consequently their reputation. These include transitioning to next-generation materials, or NextGen, circular alternatives made from agricultural residues and textile waste that are «scalable, high-performance, build resilient, future-proof supply chains, and reduce regulatory risk.» Additionally, brands should invest in circularity. «From resale platforms to take-back programs,» Rycroft explains, «circular systems allow brands to extend product lifecycles, meet customer demand for sustainability, and unlock new revenue streams.» Finally, to strengthen consumer trust—a measurable rate that, according to a report by BoF, is at its lowest level since 2005—companies must increase transparency, «a key factor for sales in today’s market.»

The coming years mark a decisive turning point for sustainability in Europe. The EU will implement the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) by 2027, a law requiring businesses of all types to undertake activities to prevent and reduce their environmental and human rights impacts. In July 2024, the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Directive came into effect, aiming to improve the circularity, energy performance, recyclability, and durability of new products. These two directives are part of a broader package of legislation (which also includes the Digital Product Passport) that will have a radical impact on supply chains across Europe. The good news, Rycroft explains, is that «the regulations recognize brands that are leading on sustainable sourcing, create consequences for those that are lagging, and creates the conditions for scaling solutions, such as Next Gen viscose made from recycled textiles or packaging made from straw.» In addition to producing positive environmental outcomes, adopting a sustainable approach benefits fashion companies, Rycroft emphasizes once again. «With conventional supply chains increasingly volatile due to the climate crisis, regulations tightening and consumer expectations rising,» it becomes practically the only alternative.

Adopting eco-friendly practices means strengthening the company and preparing it for challenges it will face in the coming years. The real battle for brands lies in tackling Scope 3 emissions, which encompass all carbon released into the environment by a company throughout its entire production process, from sourcing materials to the end-of-life of products (i.e., beyond the sale). These emissions represent 80% to 90% of total emissions produced by fashion brands and are considered the true “final boss” by non-profits like Canopy. To address this, Rycroft explains, companies must not work alone but instead «prioritize collective and systemic action As the founder emphasizes, protecting the environment means safeguarding biodiversity, without which the technical and sought-after materials many fashion brands boast would not exist. To confirm the accessibility of NextGen materials, Rycroft mentions some of the industry's biggest pioneers redefining the system’s rules, such as Stella McCartney, Inditex, Ganni, the H&M Group, and Patagonia. «Of course, there are some brands that are making slower progress than we’d like, often due to misplaced cost concerns or internal inertia to the effort needed to build supply chains. Ultimately, this reflects a lack of understanding that sustainability is not a short-term cost centre but a long-term value creator.»