Would you be able to recognise an AI campaign?

Social media is flooded with videos of the Los Angeles fires. The flames have affected much of the city, destroying villas owned by celebrities like Paris Hilton and Anthony Hopkins. Among the most popular content on Instagram and TikTok are images of famous homes reduced to ashes, photographs of the city tinged pink due to the fire-retardant powders used by firefighters to prevent the spread of flames, and especially videos of the “Hollywood” sign engulfed in flames. While the first two examples are real images, the hill hosting one of Los Angeles' most photographed symbols is actually still safe from the fires. The content is, in fact, fake, created using artificial intelligence solely to achieve high levels of engagement (which worked, judging by the millions of views accumulated on TikTok). The phenomenon has sparked controversy on social media, prompting many to wonder which images can be trusted today. Although the level of severity differs, the issue is also affecting fashion brands, which in recent weeks have faced nonexistent AI campaigns that have gone viral online due to their spectacularity. Just days before the start of one of the world's most significant Fashion Weeks, the impact of artificial intelligence on communication and marketing is beginning to be felt.

In AI Playground, an overhead view captures a room crowded with people dressed in satin coffee-coloured clothing. At the center of the image stands the Prada logo, while at the bottom, the phrase «Imaginary campaign» is faintly visible. The shot is one of many fictitious pieces created by Sybille de Saint Louvent, an Instagram page with over 24,000 followers that produces and shares advertisements created with artificial intelligence. Alongside Prada, the content creator has enjoyed making campaigns for brands like Loro Piana, Jil Sander, Bic, Converse, and Loewe, with varying results. While the “shot” created for Prada appears so realistic and aligned with the brand's imagery that it seems believable, in some cases, recognizing the AI's signature is relatively easy: for example, in the images created "for Loro Piana", the exaggerated headpiece made of meters of tulle is far removed from the artistic direction pursued by the quiet luxury maison. In the case of the AI service "for Burberry", doubts about the authenticity of the images arise from the fact that the models are turned away, an unusual feature for a brand that has relied heavily on ambassadors and international stars in its recent campaigns. Nevertheless, the page’s work is phenomenal, considering the difficulty AI faces in realistically representing the human body.

«To create these campaigns, I use tools like MidJourney, in addition to traditional design and editing software,» says Sybille de Saint Louvent. What motivated her to explore the creative limits of artificial intelligence, she explains, was the search for storytelling that goes beyond reality. «I also believe we live in an age brimming with images, where beauty is just a click away. That’s why I want to focus on creating strong narrative structures.» Her AI campaigns have already attracted the interest of some brands, she reveals, who have reached out to start a dialogue «about what can be done with creative tools like AI.»

Before the arrival of ChatGPT and tools like MidJourney, it was thought that new technologies would have a transversal role in the creative industry. Years ago, discussions began about fashion and art in the Metaverse, the sale of NFTs, and digital shopping. In 2022, even the first virtual Fashion Week was held, featuring brands like Dolce&Gabbana, Etro, and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as emerging designers. However, it was a flop due to low interest. While some maisons pushed further into Metaverse exploration with projects like the video game Gucci Vault, involving Alessandro Michele’s avatar, artificial intelligence and its allies were beginning to take root in real-world fashion. In the end, the fashion industry's predictions about new technologies proved wrong: AI didn’t create a new world like the Metaverse (which, incidentally, seems to have been forgotten), but it learned to interact with reality. Thus, users must learn to recognize fake reports and computer-generated content, while brands must deal with creators of “fake” campaigns, such as Sybille de Saint Louvent, to protect their identity.

Whether criticised or not, AI has now taken a central role in our lives. In addition to seeking advice from ChatGPT, we will soon be able to purchase books authored by artificial intelligence and AI-powered personal shoppers, fall in love with robots or lose our minds over them, and watch films starring fake actors. Judging by the success of Sybille de Saint Louvent’s campaigns, it won’t be long before we spend entire Fashion Weeks guessing whether what we see on social media truly reflects what was presented on the runway or is just another Hollywood in flames. What is certain is that the uncertainties generated by AI are increasing the value of real experiences. In hindsight, perhaps the Olsen Twins were right with their ban on phones in the front row.