What fashion can learn from the best runway moments of 2024?

Fashion shows are known for playing different roles at a moment in time. Over the decades, the purpose of catwalks has explored the meaning and evolution of culture, society, innovation and business with an ever-changing level of risk, theatricality and creativity. The industry's likelihood of creating a true standout moment has been tied to uncertainty, luxury slowdown and fashion’s biggest challenges. Still, the dream was not entirely lost in 2024. Because there was room for cementing epic languages, provocative acts and decisions against overexposure. To ring in the new year, here are five lessons from the best runway moments of 2024.

Provocative deeds

During the last evening of Paris Couture Week SS24, the omnipresent disruption of John Galliano filled the air with theatricality and emotion at the venue of the Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection. Under Pont Alexandre III, Margiela’s artisanal fashion show emerged as a powerful declaration of what the industry is lacking: to embark on a transformative journey of provocative deeds and profound exploration. Uncertainty, declining sales and issues with supply chains, among many other factors, have considerably diminished fashion's appetite for risk in the last few seasons. Nevertheless, if there is one lesson the industry can learn from one of the best runway moments of the year, ‘John Galliano's ghostly cabaret for Margiela’, it is that playing safe shouldn’t be the rule when looking to cement an epic language. When looking to conceive gestures and movements that may shape and shake the fashion years to come. Thus, in January, Margiela’s Artisanal Collection proved that it is time for creative directors to be allowed to make peace with their inner self in order to transcend with their creations. Thoughts, freedom and fantasies shouldn't be left aside. Instead, to wonder about all aspects of life and beauty will transform the upcoming years—perhaps. 

Deeply rooted 

The ritual of witnessing an official runway debut is known for unexpected outcomes, controversy and divided opinions. In most cases, when a collection unfolds on the catwalk, some reflections are already dominated by mixed feelings, and immediately after the designer’s bow, by mixed comments. Certainly, there are some exceptions. One of them is Chemena Kamali's runway debut for Chloé during FW25. Kamali’s first collection undoubtedly left a feeling of victory, mainly because the German-born designer didn’t limit herself to focusing solely on the front row by bringing back muses such as Sienna Miller, Clémence Poésy and Jerry Hall, but expanded Chloé’s spirit by elevating her deeply rooted connections to the firm. Since her childhood in Dortmund, Kamali grew up admiring and observing Karl Lagerfeld’s work —especially at Chloé. «Karl Lagerfeld was really an icon, a national hero» the designer told Vogue. Later, she earned a graduate-year internship under Phoebe Philo's reign at Chloé, worked under Clare Waight Keller’s direction, and now is the creative director of her dreamy origins. The success of her debut is no coincidence. A spontaneous and consistent connection to Chloé, coupled with a deep understanding of the brand’s values and DNA, seems to be, at least for now, the backbone of a successful partnership… sounds as if Kamali is already on her way to explore the intersection between her own Chloé world, the one she always imagined, and the world of the French luxury fashion house. 

Time, sometimes it’s all about time 

Over the last few seasons, Willy Chavarria’s shows have become one of the highlights of New York Fashion Week. His aesthetic, which was initially inspired by the street influences and sporty elements, naturally evolved towards couture and made-to-order. Despite his evolution, many things remained intact: Chavarria’s own essence and his willingness to incorporate his roots as well as social justice through his creations. As for Willy Chavarria FW25, the fashion audience witnessed what time truly means for a designer. Among jackets with considerably wide shoulders, leather pieces and biker details, a lesson about processes and the necessary passing of time unfolded. A lesson about staying true to oneself. Also to narrative levels and codes. Because a mind-blowing expression can be on the way with patience, support and creativity. 

Intimate and secret community

The Row is all about blending quality fabrics, elevated staples and a timeless philosophy of dressing. Furthermore, there’s something unique about its decision against overexposure. When the American fashion brand asked guests to refrain from taking photos or videos during its Paris Fashion Week show in February and once again in September, its voice and marketing strategy proved stronger than ever. But at the same time, Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen reassured their cult and secret way of doing business. This decision ensured a high level of intimacy and demonstrated the brand's commitment to preserving its secret community rather than pursuing a media-driven strategy. While we don’t yet know if The Row will follow the no-social media policy during next season, what we do know is that the brand’s decision left the audience wanting more in all the right ways. Because, even if it’s not all over social media, no one forgets an inquisitive experience, nobody forgets a fashion show that changes the way we manage expectations. 

Fundamental awakening

When a new moon for fashion is being signaled, Miuccia Prada is usually behind it all. Mrs. Prada understood that fashion did not have to escape the notion of the world, and that’s one of the many reasons why she left an indelible mark through her collections. When thinking about which lesson creative directors Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons conceived for Prada SS25, fundamental awakening comes to mind. In that way, the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was essential for designs to become questions. For fashion dialogs to flourish into conversations that challenge the algorithm and September’s META decision about the accounts of teen users. While the pieces in Prada’s collection and the impeccable styling showed that there are many ways of being Prada, the fashion show as a whole highlighted that the impact of collective decisions shouldn't go without even noticing or discussing. Interrogations can work as an antidote to collective well-being. Does it still feel like there was something right about Prada SS25? Indeed, there was.