French fashion in 2024 in 5 key moments

The countdown is almost over, the sands of time are nearly gone, and 2025 is starting to peek over the horizon. While starting fresh and welcoming new energy wouldn’t hurt anyone after this intense and eventful year, French fashion in 2024 has nevertheless delivered historic moments that will likely leave their mark on the industry for years to come. From runway shows that finally blurred the line between fashion and spectacle, reintroducing theatricality and originality to the fashion scene, to shows staged in the most magical and unimaginable venues, and even the Olympics infused with French elegance and craftsmanship, here are five key fashion moments of 2024 that we’ll carry into 2025, hoping for even more iconic surprises.

The Margiela Artisanal Show by John Galliano

Although we may sound predictable by mentioning this show, it’s impossible to close 2024 or discuss its fashion feats without highlighting the moment that had the entire fashion world captivated, with all eyes on the disjointed mannequin-like models walking under the Pont Alexandre III. Last January 26, with his Artisanal show for Margiela, John Galliano brought haute couture back to life in a presentation combining craftsmanship, talent, creativity, and surrealism, breathing new life into an industry starved for innovation and tired of perfectionism. With corsets, Belle Époque-style gowns in transparent organza, apocalyptic strides, and wax faces like dolls coming alive after dark, the collection was a true ode to the creatives, the forgotten, the outcasts, and the lost souls. Although he announced his departure from Maison Margiela a few weeks ago, where he had been the creative director for over a decade, John Galliano made his final bow in the most remarkable way: leaving an indelible mark on the House.

Coperni at Disneyland

After amazing us with scientific feats like Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress or their bag made of 99% air, this year, the duo Arnaud Vaillant-Sébastien Meyer, founders of Coperni, took the runway concept even further. While this time the showcased pieces didn’t feature any technical breakthroughs or stylistic revolutions, it was the venue itself that dazzled fashion enthusiasts, as the SS25 collection was presented at the foot of Sleeping Beauty’s Castle in the heart of Disneyland Paris. The designers’ aim was not to rewrite history but to integrate it into the present with a fresh perspective, blending nostalgia and imagination to create a space where past, present, and future converge. The collection speaks of them, the brand, but also of us—princes, princesses, heroes, rebels, and villains we embody every day, consciously or not. Through this collective wonder, Coperni looked beyond the realm of possibility, bringing together an audience aged 7 to 77, turning ideas into extraordinary tales and stories into a fantastic collection in every sense. If this was the first time Disneyland hosted such a show, let’s hope 2025 brings more magical and unexpected venues to transform into runways.

The Spectacular SS25 Runway Set Designs

Speaking of iconic locations, let’s take a moment to highlight the set designs that made the SS25 Paris shows unmissable for both fashion and design. While not everyone can stage a collection at Sleeping Beauty’s Castle, a well-decorated white room or a simple warehouse can be just as iconic. Matthieu Blazy (soon to be seen at Chanel in 2025) proved this by seating guests at the Bottega Veneta show on animal-shaped poufs that broke the internet and were later sold online for the modest price of $7,000. Stockholm-based Acne Studios also made waves with its SS25 collection showcased amid furniture blending “domestic and alien,” as described by creative director Johnny Johansson. In collaboration with American artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase, the set featured vintage furniture, soft sculptures, paintings, and everyday objects reimagined to explore the public and private realms. The show delighted the audience, becoming a cult favorite of fashion week. Lastly, Demna at Balenciaga left an impression with a runway designed as a massive table around which guests sat, harking back to his childhood passion for fashion sparked by crafting paper doll shows on his grandmother’s kitchen table.

Jacquemus Goes Global

For Jacquemus, 2024 was a year of travel and new horizons. Following a successful show at Capri’s Casa Malaparte, the southern designer ventured to New York to open his first boutique. A few weeks later, he repeated the feat by opening a store in London. Between croissants, bagels, and tea, Simon Porte Jacquemus shone brightly, winning a Neiman Marcus Award, a Couture Council award, and making waves at Christie’s and Vogue’s Forces of Fashion. While seeking a minority investor, Jacquemus proved once again he’s a marketing genius with campaigns featuring ambassadors like footballer Jules Koundé and Alex Consani. 2025 promises even more from this beloved designer.

The Paris Olympics

While Parisians grumbled in the lead-up to the Paris Olympics, living in the capital during this historic event that made summer unforgettable wasn’t so bad after all. Beyond athletic achievements, the Olympics (especially the opening and closing ceremonies) showcased France’s elegance and craftsmanship to the world. With LVMH’s omnipresence, Aya Nakamura’s gold-feathered dress, Céline Dion’s pearl-embroidered silk gown, Lady Gaga’s “feather thing” (all Dior creations), and Simone Biles’ Swarovski-studded leotards, fashion made this sporting event a rendezvous of elegance and quality.