Could "Nosferatu" change the future of gothic fashion?

Nosferatu by Robert Eggers, released on December 25 for the public, is not just a horror film, it is also a piece of history, with its plot set in 1830s Germany, starring renowned actors such as Lily Rose Depp, Skins icon Nicholas Hoult, and the legend Willem Dafoe. A piece of history intrinsically linked to fashion, whether intended or not. But what is the connection between the 19th-century novel's aesthetic and contemporary fashion? Will the release of the film influence modern gothic looks and trends? This gothic revival on the big screen is thanks to Linda Muir, the costume designer for Nosferatu 2024, a renowned couturier known for her meticulous craftsmanship in cinema and television, famous for her ability to blend historical accuracy with atmospheric design. While her collaborations with visionary director Robert Eggers have resulted in some of the most visually striking films in recent years, with Nosferatu, she has managed to recreate the haunting elegance of 19th-century German clothing. Her designs not only reinforce the film's historical authenticity but also enhance the elements of gothic horror, making the costumes an integral part of the film's eerie atmosphere.

But how did Linda Muir redefine the intersection of period drama and contemporary couture? First, she surrounded herself with experts, working alongside Lizzie Agnew and Catherine Collard, both of whom contributed to the costume department, each bringing their expertise to the production. Lizzie Agnew was the lead costume designer, overseeing the creation and assembly of the film's costumes. Her previous works include The Northman (2022) and Krypton (2018). Catherine Collard, meanwhile, was the lead designer for men's clothing. She has worked on Napoléon (2023) and Invictus (2009). The costumes were the true stars of the film, from coats reminiscent of Prada’s FW12 Men's collection, to the iconic Burberry trench coat, to corsets with a subtle touch of Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano for Dior, nightgowns with the innocence of Chanel and Chloé, and bold patterns like those of Hermès and Guo Pei.

In Nosferatu and elsewhere, Lily Rose Depp captivates with her beauty, highlighted by outfits that accentuate her performance. Beyond the nightgown, Muir designed various wardrobe pieces reflecting the social hierarchy of the time, including mourning clothes, such as Depp’s mourning outfit featuring a black petticoat, in line with the fashion of the era. The use of puffed sleeves and multi-layered sleeves adds a sense of grandeur and drama to her character, perfectly complementing the emotional weight of the story. Her corsets, adorned with intricate patterns, tell their own story, reflecting the deeper themes of the scenes they accompany. The meticulous attention to color theory and contrasts elevated the visual experience, particularly when combined with the haunting gray lighting that permeates the film, creating a bleak atmosphere that underscores the tension throughout the narrative.

The film reimagines Count Orlok's costume by emphasizing elongated silhouettes, rich textures, and a monochromatic color palette that evokes a gothic aesthetic. These elements resonate with contemporary fashion trends, where designers like Rick Owens and Comme des Garçons explore avant-garde shapes and textures while drawing inspiration from historical styles. The strange and unsettling nature of Orlok’s attire reflects the broader themes of darkness and identity found in modern collections that emphasize storytelling through design, perfectly illustrating how classic horror influences the current fashion dialogue. So, will Nosferatu change gothic fashion? It’s hard to say, as it is a period film with codes that may not easily translate into contemporary fashion, but it’s certain that haute couture and its theatricality will take note. We wouldn’t be surprised to see some of Nosferatu’s DNA on the runways of Margiela and its peers next January.