Second-hand is growing, but not as much as fast fashion

When talking about fashion in 2024, one fact stands out: fast fashion is still at the top of online consumers' preferences. Despite the growing focus on sustainability, especially among younger generations, platforms like Amazon, Zara, Shein, and Temu continue to dominate the market, reporting staggering numbers. According to a recent study by Yocab, cited by Sole 24 Ore, B2C online commerce in Europe reached €887 billion in 2024, with fast fashion giants consistently ranking among the top sellers. While the second-hand market is growing, it struggles to keep up. The sole exception is Vinted, which continues to expand. The reason? Second-hand is less appealing to e-shoppers in terms of delivery speed, convenience, and a wide selection of new items. This is further evidenced by the success of platforms like Temu and Shein, which have rightfully secured spots in the top 5 marketplaces in nearly all European countries. Why does fast fashion continue to dominate while second-hand struggles to take off?

The first answer lies in the name: fast fashion means speed, both in consumer purchases and in brands aligning with new trends and offering new, fashionable items weekly. In fact, according to Statista, the growth trend in fast fashion sales is projected to reach a turnover of $185 billion in 2027, compared to the current $106 billion, marking a 74.5% increase. These figures provide a second answer: fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion are affordable, and more people are moving away from luxury in response to inflation and the economic crisis while still wanting to shop. If a consumer needs a dress for the weekend, they don't have to wait weeks. They can get it immediately, at a wallet-friendly price.

The second-hand market could provide a sustainable solution from both environmental and economic perspectives, offering a concrete alternative to producing new goods and reducing resource consumption. However, it still struggles to match the speed and accessibility offered by fast fashion. Although platforms like Vinted and Vestiaire Collective have seen significant user growth in the past year, second-hand remains a niche alternative, unable to compete in terms of variety, price, and speed. At the same time, winds of change have come from younger generations over the past year. According to the Circular Fashion Survey on New Generations 2024 by PwC, conducted on European Gen Z and Millennials, the pre-owned market has attracted 7 out of 10 young people, with 29% of respondents stating that at least half of their wardrobe consists of preloved items. Additionally, 54% of young respondents made their purchases on e-commerce platforms, marking a significant increase compared to 2023, when only 35% reported buying online. Despite these positive trends, the reality remains that vintage has yet to establish itself definitively in the current landscape.

The root cause is one: consumerism. The issue of rampant consumption affects both fast fashion and the vintage market (to the point where people are discussing fast vintage), to the detriment of the latter. For fast and ultra-fast fashion, the intentions are clear—buying and producing more and more without regard for the environment. For vintage, an ethical and credibility issue arises, especially when fast fashion items end up being sold on platforms like Vinted—on the Lithuanian platform, over 60 million items for sale are from Zara. Vintage is not being purchased for quality items with an eye on the environment and a circular market; rather, it is to buy more and more, falling into the fast fashion logic. Whether it’s another case of greenwashing or not, buying second-hand does benefit the environment. According to a report by The RealReal, purchases made on the platform "allowed consumers to save 3.1 billion liters of water and 59,374 tons of CO₂ compared to buying new items."

However, the issue remains clear, rooted in habits and cultural dynamics that drive rampant consumption. Often, vintage becomes an excuse to feel sustainable but ends up being a shortcut leading straight to fast fashion: short-lived garments made of synthetic materials that are hard to dispose of. A contradiction that risks fueling hyper-consumerism instead of combating it. Buying less, with more attention, and choosing quality products designed to last and be easily recyclable or disposable could be the recipe for consumers to promote a more sustainable and responsible model.