Encyclopaedia of the Ralph Lauren Universe

Ralph Lauren. Preceded by "Polo" to make it sound more English and in reference to one of the designer's favorite sports, characterized by elegant gestures and the connection between man and animal, it is the first of many lines created by the American designer, who still remains the driving force behind his brand. A combination of the British preppy style and the American elite of the 1920s, à la Great Gatsby, offered to those who could never have afforded either of these lifestyles. The Polo Ralph Lauren line, launched in 1967 with ties and then with an elegant clothing line made from sporty fabrics, achieved enormous success in 1971, the year in which its female counterpart was born: a collection of shirts with a masculine cut, enriched by an embroidered symbol on the cuffs, the polo player logo. The very next year saw the birth of La Polo, the cornerstone of the line and the entire aesthetic of the American brand: a cotton T-shirt with a soft collar and chest opening closed by two buttons, offered in a single model available in 24 colors.

The versatility and constant appeal of the little horse line first found success among WASPs, White Anglo-Saxon Protestants, obsessed with families like the Vanderbilts and their pristine white estates. These customers did not have great financial means but wanted to feel part of that lobby. From the first advertising campaigns, the intent to represent a new idea of the American aristocratic family is clear, with garments priced in the average range, such as shirts and sweaters, set against backdrops depicting “classic” bourgeois families, luxury cars, and noble homes. The aesthetic quickly expanded, managing to enter the collective imagination of the American Ivy League, such as Harvard and Yale, and then arriving at New York private schools, Oxford colleges, and Wall Street. In the 1980s, Polo fashion reached the most elite neighborhoods of Rome, such as Parioli, and private high schools in Milan, like San Carlo High School. In less than a decade, Polo’s aesthetic became a true lifestyle, an expression of a new bourgeoisie that wanted to be as bourgeois as the real bourgeois, without being able to truly be so.

Polo Ralph Lauren from the 1980s to today

Between the late 1980s and early 1990s, Polo Ralph Lauren underwent a metamorphosis thanks to streetwear subcultures. Some New York crews transformed the brand: they cleaned up its elite image and reinvented it as a symbol of a rebellious and decidedly more fashionable style. The Lo-Lifes of Brooklyn represent the most emblematic case: obsessed with Polo pieces, they amassed collections exceeding a thousand items and flew to Puerto Rico to recover rare T-shirts. The brand's popularity exploded, projecting it into a new dimension. This opened up an unplanned path: that of music and artists who, coming from the streets, pursued the American dream. Kanye West, in the album College Dropout, sang «Thank You Ralph»; multiple times, the artist himself declared his desire to create a new American value, just as Ralph Lauren did for his generation. Unforgettable are the looks of 1990s and 2000s rappers, characterized by little horse shirts and polos paired with numerous chains, contrasting with the brand's image.

Polo has been and continues to be a true status symbol. Worn by Lady Diana and her ex-husband, the current King Charles III, Polo Ralph Lauren has won over British royal families, historic American fraternities, rappers who have made history, and even kids from the provinces. In Italy, starting as a Parioli uniform, the little horse has also held a prominent place in the Trap scene. This change of direction brought Polo into millions of homes and expanded the brand with various lines, each designed for a specific target while maintaining the brand's distinctive aesthetic. Ralph Lauren does not take a position on this. He may not approve, but he understands that it is also thanks to this underground evolution that his brand has become a legend.

The arrival of Purple Label and Lauren Ralph Lauren

In 1994, Purple Label was introduced, a sartorial line dedicated to luxury menswear with prices significantly higher than its Polo Ralph Lauren counterpart, justified by the craftsmanship and exclusivity of the garments. The suits are handmade using the finest fabrics, aimed at an elite target. To understand Purple Label's market positioning, it is enough to recall that the former American president, Joe Biden, wore a Ralph Lauren Purple Label blue suit on his first day at the White House. This was not just an aesthetic choice: as declared by the American designer's team to WWD, wearing Purple Label is “a symbolic sartorial statement, a call for decorum and support for American values.” Purple Label stands out as a representation line, deeply linked to American politics and high-society events. The little horse does not appear here: what is represented is power and social positioning. In 1996, the Lauren Ralph Lauren line was launched, designed to elevate womenswear from the Polo line. The collection introduces elegant garments and footwear enriched with a more modern and practical spirit: a fusion of Ralph Lauren's sophistication and practicality. No longer cable-knit sweaters and polos, but dresses and suits characterized by a sophisticated aesthetic and accessible prices. Even the advertising campaigns marked a step change, targeting a hybrid audience that included both American housewives and career women.

The Ralph Lauren Collection

If the Polo line established Ralph Lauren as the godfather of American fashion, the Ralph Lauren Collection allowed him to rise among the elite names of fashion—a world long dominated exclusively by French and Italian “masters.” The Ralph Lauren Collection represents the most exclusive line of the brand: a celebration of craftsmanship and raw materials, comparable in rigor and quality to haute couture standards. In Oscar-related imagery, one icon remains Gwyneth Paltrow, radiant and wrapped in a cloud of pink taffeta, accepting the award for Best Actress in 1999 for Shakespeare in Love. The dress, designed by Ralph Lauren, marked a symbolic moment: the Bronx boy competing, under the spotlight, with actresses dressed by the greatest couturiers. In 2011, Michelle Obama appeared before Queen Elizabeth wearing Ralph Lauren; in 2015, Kate Middleton chose a Ralph Lauren dress for her first public appearance after the birth of her daughter, Charlotte. And again, royals, actresses, and First Ladies: Jill Biden, featured on the cover of Vogue US in August 2024, wore Ralph Lauren. The wedding dress of Priyanka Chopra, completed in 1,826 hours of work and consisting of 135 satin-covered buttons, a slip embroidered with 2,380,000 pearl sequins, and an endless tulle veil over 22 meters long, was signed Ralph Lauren.

The Double RL Line

Double RL, founded in 1993, represents Ralph Lauren’s deep connection with rural America. The name honors the initials of Ralph and his wife, Ricky. Inspired by the couple’s ranch in Colorado, this line is a tribute to authenticity and reflects the aesthetics of the Wild West and American workwear. Double RL pieces evoke the nostalgic charm of a bygone era: denim crafted using traditional techniques, leather jackets that seem pulled straight from old saloons, sturdy work shirts, and Navajo motifs. It marks a significant stylistic departure from the brand’s canonical vision, focusing on excellent craftsmanship, particularly in knitwear. Double RL is not aimed at a broad target audience but at a well-defined niche with significant purchasing power, attracted by the line’s quality and authenticity. It is a cameo within the Ralph Lauren portfolio, almost functioning as a historical research that appeals to a different consumer interested not only in style but also in the American narrative.

RLX Ralph Lauren

RLX Ralph Lauren, launched in 1999, marks Ralph Lauren’s entry into the world of sportswear, while maintaining the brand’s signature savoir-faire. This line was designed for a sophisticated, active audience passionate about sports, with particular attention to outdoor activities and technical disciplines. Aesthetically, the line stands out: the fabrics chosen are high-performance technical materials, breathable and weather-resistant, while remaining faithful to the brand’s distinctive color palette. Unlike the Polo Sport subline under Polo, RLX presents itself as a more structured collection, aimed at a target focused on the concept of "dynamic luxury." A key role in consolidating RLX’s image, and Ralph Lauren’s philosophy more broadly, was the partnership as the official uniform supplier for the United States Olympic team, an operation that further reinforced the brand’s position as a benchmark for American style and sports culture.

The Rugby Ralph Lauren Line

In 2004, Ralph Lauren introduced the Rugby Ralph Lauren line, designed for a younger audience and inspired by the aesthetics of American colleges and their rugby teams. With its lively and casual spirit, Rugby sought to attract a fresher clientele compared to RLX, offering pieces like sweatshirts, chinos, and long-sleeve polos with horizontal stripes reminiscent of sports uniforms. This line was aimed at the "quarterbacks,” but this further differentiation and layering did not achieve the expected results. In 2013, after a decade, the line was discontinued.

Denim & Supply, an Unsuccessful Experiment

Denim & Supply, launched in 2011, represented Ralph Lauren’s homage to denim and casual style, inspired by the artistic communities of Brooklyn and the aesthetics of music festivals. Characterized by a design halfway between boho and military, the line failed to fully attract the intended young audience, partly due to its high price positioning. In 2016, the company decided to discontinue Denim & Supply to focus resources on core brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, integrating denim offerings within these lines. The closure was essential not only because of poor performance but also to optimize market effectiveness, avoiding dilution caused by excessive subline proliferation.

Democratizing Luxury with the Chaps Line

If the Chaps line, launched in 1978, represented one of Ralph Lauren’s boldest moves, it is because it brought the brand’s casual elegance and spirit to a much broader audience. Designed as an accessible offering for the American middle class, Chaps celebrated classic American style reinterpreted for mass consumers: button-down shirts, cable-knit sweaters, and sports jackets reminiscent of Ivy League campus atmospheres but targeted at a more distant reality. The line stood out for its ability to democratize Ralph Lauren’s aspirational image, positioning itself in department stores. However, this accessibility also represented its ambiguity: while Chaps embodied the American Dream, it also distanced itself from the exclusivity and prestige that the main collections sought to represent. Initially, Chaps was the best way to spread the brand and reach everyone, but over time, its excessive presence in mid-range stores and discount outlets compromised its positioning, transforming the Ralph Lauren signature into a brand perceived as more “entry-level” than aspirational. Today, Chaps operates under license by the OVED Group, offering casual and affordable clothing distributed primarily in department stores in the United States, Canada, and Mexico.