Why Matthieu Blazy is the perfect creative director for Chanel
The Maison of Rue Cambon prepares to officially enter a new era
December 13th, 2024
After months of speculation, bets, changes of opinion, and doubts, the verdict has finally fallen: Matthieu Blazy will take over Virginie Viard’s role as the creative director of Chanel. While the Franco-Belgian designer dazzled during his three years at Bottega Veneta, his arrival at Chanel is poised to ignite the fashion scene. Indeed, though speculation about the identity of Chanel's next creative director—with Simon Porte Jacquemus, Jeremy Scott and Hedi Slimane leading the race—was rife, the announcement of the winner yesterday was met with unanimous approval from fashion insiders, who (almost) all agree that Blazy will make sparks fly at Chanel. Here's why.
While the creative director position at the Rue Cambon Maison was the most coveted in the industry in recent months, it’s not just because Chanel epitomizes French elegance and savoir-faire, but also because this prestigious role demands very specific qualities, making it nearly unattainable. To earn the honor of sitting in the coveted seat of Chanel's creative throne, it’s not enough to be a talented designer with goodwill; one must also be well-known, respected by both the public and industry insiders, and capable of leveraging their experience while putting it in the background to respect Chanel's unique DNA. Above all, the candidate must prioritize expanding the brand and have the will to propel it forward, putting personal projects aside and dedicating themselves fully to Chanel. They must also enjoy engaging with the media game without letting their ego dominate. Lastly, they need the stamina to create two ready-to-wear collections, one cruise collection, two couture collections, and one métiers d’art collection annually for many years.
Blazy checks all these boxes: highly appreciated in the sector, he has more than proven his success in recent years. His eloquence and ease with the media are impressive, his professional background makes him a seasoned designer, and he is young enough to promise Chanel a long-term commitment, bringing a modern vision that aligns with the times. Since 2007, Matthieu Blazy has been moving forward, never looking back. After nearly 20 years in the industry, a three-year tenure at Bottega Veneta, and early stints leading the studio at Maison Margiela after Martin Margiela’s departure in 2011, at Céline under Phoebe Philo, and at Calvin Klein under Raf Simons, Blazy has proven his capabilities time and time again. His tenure at Bottega Veneta showcased his ability to respect a brand’s DNA and heritage while giving it a touch of modernity. Indeed, Blazy's arrival at Bottega also marks the arrival of a futuristic vision and a meticulous eye for detail, with accessories made using intrecciato, a weaving of leather pieces that has become characteristic of the Maison, minimalist yet perfectly cut pieces, and a perfect balance between sobriety and originality. Exactly the wave of respectful innovation Chanel could benefit from, particularly after Virginie Viard’s tenure, criticized for its lack of modernity and unflattering, outdated silhouettes.
Speaking of intrecciato and accessories, these too make Blazy the ideal fit for Chanel. Bags are a cornerstone of Chanel’s heritage, with its classic flap bag increasing in value annually and remaining one of the brand’s most popular items, and Blazy, for his part, knows how to create iconic bags. The Andiamo model by Bottega Veneta has been among this year’s most sought-after, often seen on Jacob Elordi, Bottegas' brand ambassador. Beyond clothing and accessories, Blazy also excels at creating memorable runway sets, such as this year’s SS25 collection presentation at Paris Fashion Week, where guests watched from animal-shaped poufs designed to match their personalities. Something that Chanel has been doing for decades, known for its spectacular shows at the Grand Palais—including a recreated supermarket for FW24-25 and a snowy Christmas village for FW19-20.
Although Chanel has been less impacted by the luxury crisis gripping the industry, it has faced a creativity crisis in recent years. While the SS25 collection showcased in Paris this September and the Métiers d’Art collection recently presented in China helped mitigate the shortcomings of Viard’s tenure, a fresh breeze of innovation is long overdue. "We did not choose Matthieu to simply 'do Chanel'; we chose him to push the boundaries of what Chanel is, for the future," said Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel's president of fashion, to BOF. "He will bring his modernity, his way of working—Chanel is ready to be carried forward." We eagerly anticipate his modern touch and way of working in a few months, knowing that Blazy will enter the big doors of Chanel in October 2025.