You need to stop pressuring creatives to work for free

In fashion, as in the art world, earning enough to survive is one of the greatest career challenges. While for executives and management of major luxury brands the reward is almost guaranteed, for creatives, emerging designers, and small entrepreneurs (but often even for tailors in the style offices of major fashion houses), it is not always the case that salaries suffice, especially for those who must live in expensive cities like London to work in fashion. Although in the English capital, as in other major fashion hubs, the economic hardships faced by young creatives are considered part of the game—the famous “apprenticeship”—new studies reveal that the situation is far more dire than reported by those who, in truth, never really went through that famous apprenticeship. According to a survey by Bectu (the UK union for arts and entertainment), eight out of ten people in the UK feel pressured to work for free. Moreover, out of 500 respondents, 59% reported that work negatively impacted their personal relationships, while seven out of ten said they struggled to protect their mental health in the past year. Only 14% of respondents said they were paid on time. 

Beyond the fun of after-parties and glamorous images, fashion is much more than the filtered image seen on social media: behind the scenes of the runways are underpaid assistants and stylists forced to work non-stop. «I am still amazed by the levels of toxicity in this industry,» said a senior fashion designer interviewed by Bectu, while a freelance assistant reported: «Shoes were thrown at me, I was told that some expenses would be covered, and then the client refused to pay. I worked 16-hour days during London Fashion Week for just 100 pounds.» For 83% of those interviewed by the union, some of the behaviors directed at creatives would be considered inappropriate publicly, but in fashion, they are tolerated because they have become normalized. Additionally, only 10% feel secure in their jobs. 

«The issues raised by our survey should sound an alarm for the industry, with many fashion creatives telling us they don't see themselves in the sector in five years,» said Bectu director Philippa Childs. But the findings of the UK union’s study should not only serve as a warning to the UK, as problems such as poor pay, excessive working hours, and demeaning treatment affect not just young creatives in London but also talents in all major fashion cities, from New York to Paris and, of course, Milan. One does not need a survey to uncover what happens behind closed doors in the fashion industry: just talk to anyone who has ever worked in the sector to understand why so many want to leave it. Despite its significant contribution to the economies of involved countries—in 2022, clothing sales in the UK generated a total revenue of 58.5 billion pounds, while in Italy, in 2023, the fashion industry amassed a total of 111.7 billion euros—fashion continues to neglect the people who work for it. As a result, those who once dreamed of being part of this world now hate it.