Fashion in the spotlight at Art Basel Paris

According to Yohji Yamamoto, “Fashion is not art. Fashion is about making clothes. And it’s only after they are made that some clothes can become works of art.” From the lobster dress designed by Elsa Schiaparelli in collaboration with Salvador Dalì, to the partnership between Louis Vuitton and Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, or the iconic Mondrian collection by Yves Saint Laurent in collaboration with the German painter, fashion and art have always been intricately linked, blending and supporting one another in a fusion of creative ideas and DNA. For the 2024 edition of Art Basel Paris, fashion made its way into exhibitions, artworks, and artistic performances. After hosting the Olympics and Chanel’s SS25 show in late September, the Grand Palais once again served as the home of France’s largest art fair last week. In an era where luxury is declining and brands must foster relationships with potential clients, the art world represents a crucial opportunity for fashion, offering a unique way to reach an audience that is not only wealthy but also passionate about culture and iconic pieces. As VIP art collectors, advisors, and journalists gathered in the French capital for a week of modern and contemporary art sold for millions of euros, brands like Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, and Burberry stood out with their exhibitions, installations, and mini-conferences.

The week kicked off in grand style, with Louis Vuitton and its foundation celebrating its 10th anniversary by opening a massive retrospective of American pop artist Tom Wesselmann, running until February 2025. Outside the foundation and among other exhibitors, the French house showcased creations by the foundation’s architect Frank Gehry at the Grand Palais. On the central balcony of the Grand Palais, one of his fish-shaped sculptures appeared to float between two LV monogrammed balloons. Behind it, a sponsored lounge displayed new iterations of Gehry’s Twisted Box bags, alongside other futuristic handbag models and sketches of the foundation.

Elsewhere in the city, beyond the glass walls of the Grand Palais, the Miu Miu brand unveiled a performance and exhibition titled Tales and Tellers by Polish artist Goshka Macuga, reprising her installation initially created for Miuccia Prada’s October 1st fashion show. While the installation was designed to leave a lasting impression on Fashion Week attendees, it also became a highlight of Art Basel. Conceived as a multi-faceted experience of architecture, fashion, film, and print media, the show aimed to represent the protagonists of each of the 28 Miu Miu Tales — an anthology of short films directed by women about women, under the direction of Agnès Varda, Chloë Sevigny, and Miranda July — which were projected on screens, iPads, iPhones, and viewfinders in an architectural intervention designed by Rem Koolhaas's OMA think tank. The exhibition showcases 13 years of filmmaking in the form of a live event, featuring a program of talks curated by Spanish commissioner Elvira Dyangani Ose.

A little further away, in the 8th arrondissement, the Galerie Dior inaugurated an exhibition highlighting the work of photographer Peter Lindbergh, retracing his career and emphasizing his influence on the world of fashion and how it is represented. In the realm of culinary arts, Maison Alaïa presented La table Alaïa, exploring the intersection of fashion, food, and hospitality. Each dinner was hosted by a different personality and a renowned chef, with custom furniture and tableware embodying Alaïa’s aesthetic. Burberry also made its mark this week, celebrating the intersections of fashion, art, and culture with a talk. The event took place at Burberry's boutique on Avenue Montaigne and coincided with the brand’s Outerwear 2024 campaign launch. One of the highlights of the evening was a conversation between artist Alvaro Barrington and Patrick Steffen, editor-in-chief of Art Basel Paris. Six of Barrington's works, including 3 sculptures and 3 paintings, were displayed in the boutique. In addition to the artworks, Burberry presented five replicas from its archives, showcasing the brand’s rich legacy as a pioneer in outerwear.

In this time of global crisis for the fashion world, artistic events like Art Basel, which attract collectors and enthusiasts from all corners of the world, also represent a significant media and advertising window for fashion. The industry has clearly recognized that every opportunity to make an appearance counts. And rightly so, because this 2024 edition of Art Basel attracted no less than 65,000 visitors, 195 galleries from 42 countries, and cultural figures from around the globe. Significant sales, a rich public program, and enthusiastic participation have reinforced Art Basel Paris’s status as a major cultural event in the French capital and beyond. Who knows, maybe after this success, the 2025 edition will become like a mini Fashion Week outside the calendar, and Art Basel will establish itself as a fashion reference in its own right.