The original Birkin unveiled from every angle

It all began in 1984, somewhere in the air aboard an Air France flight, when Jane Birkin, then a mother of three young children, spilled her bag and casually complained about not being able to find a larger bag with more pockets to organize all the odds and ends a busy young mother might need. Fate intervened, as she shared her frustration not with just anyone, but with Jean-Louis Dumas, then president of Hermès. He wasted no time in deciding that the house should attempt to create a custom bag for the young actress that would meet her needs. Indeed, before the bag became the leather icon we know today, Jane Birkin was the first to carry it, testing the prototype of what would later become one of the world’s most sought-after fashion pieces, starting in 1985. Today, it’s not a replica or one of the many versions of the Birkin that is under the spotlight and that the fashion public will have the chance to scrutinize closely, but the original bag itself – the very first Birkin ever made, belonging to Jane Birkin herself.

After a decade of loyal service by the Franco-British artist’s side, she decided to part with her beloved bag in 1994 for a good cause, donating it to an auction in support of the Aids association. Several years later, in the early 2000s, it returned to the auction market at Poulain Le Fur, where it was acquired by vintage collector Catherine B. Today, this same collector, rather than parting with it, offers the public a chance to see it up close as part of Excellence à la Française, an exhibition inaugurating the new Sotheby’s headquarters in Paris (a private and public auction company). This marks a first for the Birkin. But after a meticulous analysis of this leather gem by experts, what has been revealed? Quite a bit. If we thought the first Birkin model was replicated identically to produce the versions available today, it’s not quite the case.

Following a meticulous study by Sotheby’s experts, they revealed that at least seven details present on Jane Birkin’s custom bag are not found on the later models. The prototype, inspired by the Haut à Courroies model, retained one feature: its closed metal loops. The shoulder strap, which is removable on other models, is not detachable here and even contains a nail clipper. The zip, initially provided by Éclair, was replaced in 1990 by Riri closures. The gold-plated brass used in the model designed for the actress and singer was replaced with gold plating when the first series of Birkin bags was launched in 1986. Its size, too, doesn’t match any standard Hermès dimensions: its width and height correspond to those of a 35 cm Birkin, while its depth is that of a 40 cm Birkin, with the four studs on the bottom smaller than those on later series. These details make the original Birkin even more iconic, piquing the curiosity of fashion enthusiasts who likely won’t have the opportunity to see this historic piece up close again. Be sure to visit the Excellence à la Française exhibition, showcasing the first Birkin and many other French-made works of art, from October 12 to 31 at Sotheby’s, 83 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.