Filippo Grazioli leaves Missoni
The new creative director will be, well, the old creative director
October 3rd, 2024
Missoni has announced the departure of Filippo Grazioli from his role as creative director after just two years. Having led the maison since 2022, Grazioli presented his final collection during Milan Fashion Week SS25 Women’s, after which his mandate concluded. According to the brand’s management, the separation was amicable and consensual. A successor has already been named, but it is not a new face: Alberto Caliri will take the helm starting with the upcoming pre-fall collection. He began working for the brand in 1998 and became interim creative director in 2021 after Angela Missoni’s departure, receiving positive reviews before taking charge of the brand’s Home line. According to Missoni CEO Livio Proli, the decision to promote Caliri is aimed at consolidating the brand's luxury market positioning by creating a unified collection that gives equal weight to menswear, womenswear, and home furnishings.
Under Grazioli's leadership, Missoni revisited some of the maison’s iconic motifs, such as the famous zigzag, while also exploring territories somewhat unfamiliar to the brand, like transparent dresses, fringed skirts, and cocktail dresses. Nevertheless, rumors of a possible change in creative direction had been circulating for some time, partly fueled by Proli's decision to invest more in menswear, which was presented in June at Pitti Uomo by an in-house team. Among Proli’s strategic moves are the opening of stores in exclusive locations like Dubai, Mykonos, and Sydney, and a strong emphasis on developing the luxury furniture line, which has seen a 50% increase in sales over the last four years under Caliri’s supervision. Like several other brands, leveraging its expertise in interior design, Missoni is also entering the luxury real estate market with projects in Toronto and Marbella, integrating the brand’s signature geometric patterns into furnishings and luxury residences.