Glenn Martens on his way to Margiela?

Glenn Martens, an iconic figure in contemporary and experimental fashion, known for his designs featuring dramatic volumes, trompe-l'oeil, construction play, and layered fabrics, recently caused a stir by announcing his departure from Y/Project, a brand he shaped over 11 intense years as creative director. This news left a significant void in the industry, which has continually admired the Belgian designer for his boldness and creativity. Martens' unexpected departure has, of course, fueled rumors about his future, with Maison Margiela, currently led by John Galliano—set to leave in the fall—quickly becoming the main subject of speculation. However, just as the fashion world was picturing Martens at the helm of another major house, an unexpected statement overturned all expectations: “My first focus is chickens,” he told Vogue Business. A puzzling response that has not gone unnoticed.

The timing of his departure is unsettling, as are the designer’s remarks, where he clarified that he was in no hurry to embark on another intensive fashion adventure, already holding two artistic director positions. Indeed, when asked about his professional future and the rumors linking him to Galliano's succession, Martens preferred to mention his dream of acquiring a country house, far from Parisian runways. “I really want to have chickens. I’m actually planning to buy a small country house outside of Paris,” he said. Away from the spotlight, his immediate concern seems more down-to-earth. Yet, this rural aspiration could also symbolize a necessary break after years of orchestrating collections under high creative pressure. Behind this pastoral dream may lie a period of reflection before bouncing back into a new artistic direction.

Meanwhile, an interview with Renzo Rosso, CEO of the OTB group that owns Diesel and Maison Margiela, also given to Vogue Business, only amplified the speculation. Rosso, while praising Martens' work at Diesel, which he called “so cool, so fantastic,” did not rush to reveal future plans. He also emphasized the rarity of talents like Martens and Galliano, placing them in a category of their own. “Glenn is a couturier, not just a designer. Like John Galliano, couturiers have a different way of thinking. Each piece tells a story,” he admitted. This statement might hint at a potential future collaboration between the CEO and Martens. But for now, no serious decisions seem to have been made. So, Martens at Margiela? Perhaps, but for the moment, his priorities lie elsewhere, far from the ateliers, nestled in a corner of the countryside. A space where he can, finally, breathe before rewriting a new chapter in fashion history.