All the lightness of the avian world in David Koma's SS25
The Georgian designer tells us about his encounter with hummingbirds, swallows and the photography of Leila Jeffreys
October 2nd, 2024
Gracefully soaring in the sky, birds have long symbolized ideals of freedom and liberation, reflecting our human desire to transcend boundaries. For his SS25 collection, David Koma drew inspiration from the avian world, channeling its ethereal essence to explore new expressive heights through his garments. Sitting in his Paris showroom dressed in a denim suit, the Georgian designer shared his inspirations during a rare moment of calm amidst French fashion week: «I spent the three months of Covid lockdown in a house on the outskirts of England. The British countryside is beautiful, and as a city boy, I marveled at every detail—the birdsong waking me up in the morning must have exerted a subliminal power over my creativity». Aside from his fascination with English nature, the designer’s journey into the bird world was also inspired by the work of Leila Jeffreys, the renowned Australian artist famous for her captivating portraits of winged creatures. Jeffreys' use of minimalist backdrops highlights the vivid plumage and intricate details of her subjects, creating a visual narrative that transcends traditional wildlife photography. The collection celebrates sensuality through Koma's unmistakable lens, effortlessly blending playful seduction with a touch of charming innocence.
Particularly prominent are the hummingbirds and swallows. The hummingbirds infuse the collection with a sense of joy, inspiring the designs with their boundless energy and graceful, agile flight. Meanwhile, the swallows, renowned for their lasting pair bonds, symbolize love and romance. Both inspire a deeply feminine collection. Alongside the designer's signature graphic black, a palette of sorbet pastels takes center stage. Lace and soft net silk form dramatic yet romantic dresses. Jersey ensembles focus on comfort, while feathered sleeveless sweatshirts add a touch of opulence. Playful softness is further emphasized by the addition of lace veils and tulle ruffle bustiers. «I wanted the collection to be somehow super fragile and sensual, but at the same time strong and naïve. Playing with contrasts, yes, but in the most fragile and sensitive way possible, and then to contrast all this with my comfort zone, with darker colors and more graphic silhouettes. And I think, in the final balance, it really works», Koma comments. Crystallized hummingbirds flutter throughout the collection, perching on the hips and necklines of sheer sequin mini dresses, while hand-embroidered swallows suspend liquid jersey over the décolleté. Bold elements of metal chains are softened with flowers made from single feather petals, appearing as trims and earrings. Knitwear emerges in the form of sparkling crystal-encrusted dresses and twin sets, embroidered with elongated glass sequins and metal straws.
In homage to the season’s natural theme, David Koma introduces a special collaboration with electric motorcycle brand DAB Motors, focused on sustainable transportation, featuring three exclusive color variants of the motorcycle. Inspired by the brand's iconic padded biker jacket, David Koma also launched a new bag model, The Racer made of matte calfskin or textured pony leather, available in three sizes. A collaboration Koma describes as "spontaneous" because «at the same time we were launching the Racer bags, inspired by my love for motocross, and then with the birds and speed and all this concept, I thought: ‘Oh, it would be interesting to collaborate with them because, you know, I really love this sport.’ And then, because they were beautiful bikes, but they were e-bikes, I thought conceptually it made a lot of sense, and I did it. And then, either unconsciously or consciously, I feel like I made the right choice.»